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Duchess Right 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Chris Gonzalez & John Wolfe, 3/74
Page Views: 1,271
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Jan 1, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: "Duchess Right".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

If you think you might like to struggle up off-widths, this is a good place to start. Duchess Right (aka "Crack Kills" among my friends and I) features 10-20 feet (depending on how early you exit onto the face to the right) of classic 5.7 off-width. As a bonus, it's easily TR'd. Bust out that #6 Friend and go for it.


Protection 

Wide stuff. Long slings for belay. A well-placed anchor will allow you to TR this, Duchess, and Duchess Left.



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By Kelly
Jun 5, 2003

Beauty route. I used small aliens near the bottom crux, and a little heel-toe action to climb through this section. If you want a fun challenge at the grade, give it a go.

By Blitzo
Sep 8, 2006

5.7? Getting slippery!

By Chris D
From: the couch
Jan 18, 2010

I don't know if this is what 5.7 off-width feels like, as it was one of the first off-widths I've done that's more than one move. It kicked my ass. At the crux, the rock inside the crack is like butter and there's nothing on the face until you make a couple of moves. I fell a number of times seconding this, and am pretty confident leading at Josh on 5.7 crack and face climbs like Mentalphysics and Life's a Bitch. I'd have been in real trouble if I'd tried to lead this one!

Take big gear. One #5 Camalot is not enough, and probably would be good to have a #6 or two. Or TR after climbing Duchess.

An eye-opener!

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 7, 2010

Campground classic. Free soloed this onsight, go right side in and you can't cheat half of it by climbing face, you'll actually need some heel toe and arm bar action. Crux is probably getting through the decades of polish and established in the crack itself at the start. Would be hard to fall out of...makes a good solo.

By hikingdrew
From: Los Angeles, CA
Sep 10, 2013

Short, but an ass beating..