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Routes in Feudal Wall (Left Side)

Block, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castrum, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chessboard, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coco-Loco T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Court Jester T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coyote In the Bushes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crown Jewels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drawbridge, The TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duchess T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duchess Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Jewels TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Reina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marchesa T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Monaco S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Not Just another Pretty Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paper or Plastic? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pocket Pool S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 1326 T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Scaramouch T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Swishbah T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swishbah Variations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Wolfe and others, 1979
Page Views: 1,585 total · 8/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Jan 13, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Fun, two pitch climb. Third class scramble to the right of The Castrum to reach the base. Climb straight up past the obvious bolt. The moves above the bolt are greasy and harder than the 5.7 given in guidebooks, although they can be easily avoided with a 5.6 chute 10-20 feet to the right. Above that, the climbing eases up a bit, but is consistently fun. Most parties set a belay on the intermediate ledge to relieve rope drag. Run out the second pitch on fun 5.5-5.6 terrain. Popular.

Protection

4 bolts (all 3/8"), standard rack and some shoulder-length slings. Best climbed in two pitches to avoid rope drag.

Photos

Tim Maas
Isla Vista, California
  5.9
Tim Maas   Isla Vista, California
  5.9
Josh-esque anchor on top, bring slings. Got lost on the descent twice and tried rapping off of Castles Burning but there were two bolt holes on top and no anchors. Found a mellow descent towards the north. Dec 23, 2017
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
Randy - not odd if it was done after the info for the guide was sent to the printers. Oct 21, 2010
Randy  
While it is certainly possible that John Wolfe did the FA, it is odd that he did not include this route in his 1979 guidebook. Oct 21, 2010
attila  
Any beta on the descent? We ended up walking off the back (north/northeast) side. Jan 25, 2010
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Glad to see this listed as a 5.9 here; the crux definitely felt harder than the 5.7 in the old Vogel guidebook. The crux is definitely the moves around the bolt. The crimps are solid but small and sharp and smearing is the way to go. The move from the undercling to the upper seam is a fun little section! Mar 16, 2009
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.9-
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.9-
Concur on it not being a 5.7! Its there, but, thin.
Got a great DMM peanut stopper prior to the bolt. Seemed bomber. Jan 2, 2007
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
A fun two-pitch outing that is worth doing if in the area. The FA of this was John Wolfe, which was discovered when replacing the original bolts on this route - the home-made hangers were stamped JCW. Jan 27, 2006
The Gray Tradster  
  5.9
A key hold has broken. It hasn't been 5.7 for several years Nov 30, 2004
Brian Alleyne
  5.9
Brian Alleyne  
  5.9
Getting past the first bolt is NOT 5.7 by any stretch of the imagination. Good thing that it is well protected at that point. The rest of the route is 5.7 or easier. And very varied.

The route goes all the way to the top, and can be done as a single long route. Just go past the ledge, up the following double crack, over the dyke, and up the face past 3 more bolts. The walkdown is not too bad. Nov 30, 2004
Woody Stark  
5.9
We did this route yesterday as a warm-up! It's definitely a nine going by the bolt. Nov 24, 2003
I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks this is a total sandbag at 5.7 -- I tried it as one of my first leads a couple of years ago, and got totally spanked trying to get past the first bolt (of course, right after I finally gave up, some 12-year-old kid flew right up it, but that's JT for ya'). 5.9 sounds about right. Jan 8, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.9
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.9


I agree! Jan 5, 2003
Josh Beck
5.9
Josh Beck  
5.9
This is a pretty decent route. You definitely shouldn't go over to the gully to the right as you'd miss the business of the route.

It's my understanding, however, that something has broken off of this route, which is why it seems very hard for 5.7 :)

Felt like 5.9 to me and I've heard the same from a couple of others... like I said apparently the route has changed. Jan 4, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.9
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.9
I used a #4 nut to protect myself from decking before clipping the bolt (3/8"). The moves past the bolt are harder than 5.7, although I didn't move to the right as suggested. Jan 3, 2003

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