Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,757 total · 8/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

Duchess Left is the easiest and least interesting of the three Duchess climbs. That said, it does have a fun, bouldery start, and a couple of interesting moves over a small bulge before it merges into Duchess near the top. Hell, the approach is 10 seconds. While you're here, why not climb it?

Duchess Left is the left side of the alcove right in front of the picnic table

Protection

Standard rack. Long slings for belay. A well-placed anchor will allow you to TR this, Duchess, and Duchess Right.

Photos

Jeffrey Davis
  5.6
Jeffrey Davis  
  5.6
Maybe my approach towards this climb was all wrong but I had a tough time getting over the slab. Jul 18, 2004
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Pile! Sep 8, 2006
EmilyFox
Oakland, CA
  5.6
EmilyFox   Oakland, CA
  5.6
Maybe this used to be a 5.4 and some holds have broken off? Felt more like a 5.6 to me. Jan 5, 2009
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
Brian B Ballard   Laramie, WY
Stiff for a 5.4. I finished with a slopey lieback around the upper section to miss upper duchess. Fun stuff. Apr 7, 2009
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Junk, and harder than Duchess. Did it once, won't do it again. Dec 7, 2010
Climb To Safety
california
 
Climb To Safety   california
 
I agree it's junk , but its not harder than duchess, maybe a bit more awkward, but still pretty easy. Jan 31, 2013
matvey
  5.8
matvey  
  5.8
Definitely not a 5.4! More like 5.6-5.8 Jun 16, 2014
Erick Santos
Long Beach, CA
  5.6
Erick Santos   Long Beach, CA
  5.6
Personally I enjoyed this climb contrary to other opinions on here. I comfortably stemmed from the beginning until at/over the crux. The rest in my group however all felt the opening moves were very awkward but with little stemming. Feb 12, 2018