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Routes in Feudal Wall (Left Side)

Block, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castrum, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chessboard, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coco-Loco T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Court Jester T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coyote In the Bushes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crown Jewels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drawbridge, The TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duchess T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duchess Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Jewels TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Reina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marchesa T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Monaco S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Not Just another Pretty Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paper or Plastic? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pocket Pool S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 1326 T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Scaramouch T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Swishbah T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swishbah Variations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Yvonne MacPherson, Mark Maynard & Todd Gordon, April 1989
Page Views: 3,163 total, 17/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 3, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This fun route climbs a slab to slightly overhung face past 5 bolts to anchors although originally done with only 4 bolts, which made the crux more thrilling. Years later (late 1990's) the FA party added the topmost bolt to make the climb better protected and more accessible for all. It is a little runout at the start and the rating might even be a little sandbag, but hey you're at Josh -- what did you expect?

Location

Just right of Duchess Right.

Protection

5 bolts to anchors (3/8")

Photos

Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11b PG13
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11b PG13
Don't fall before the first bolt. Your piece in the first horizontal will not protect you from a ground fall if you fall while clipping the first bolt, IMO. It would be close... I didn't test it. The climbing is not difficult after the horizontal, but I definitely had the pucker factor going on. I placed a black alien in the horizontal (only brought small stuff) and was not stoked on it. I slung it out of habbit and with the catch point dropped below the piece, I am pretty certain I would have decked. A blue or green alien would have fit much better. That being said, "don't fall before first high bolt" climbs always warrant some serious safety rating when the bolt is 20 feet up. Feb 18, 2013
Bob Gaines
  5.11b
Bob Gaines  
  5.11b
The first ascent was done in April 1989, ground up, with hooks and a power drill (back in the day when it was legal to use a power drill).

There was a group of Marines training on the Feudal Wall that day and two of them had to be EVACed via ambulance after leader falls. Apr 5, 2012
Great route- the first bolt is high but easily protectable with a .5 in the first horizontal. Top crux section is thin, but with good bolt placements. Great route to try on lead- you can always run up the awesome 5.10 next to it to retrieve gear if you bail. Feb 21, 2012
Josh Beck
  5.11b
Josh Beck  
  5.11b
I agree this route is on the harder side of 5.11b for me. Fun though and one of the better routes I've done in Indian Cove as well. Nov 28, 2004
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Definitely one of the best in the immediate vicinity. Three stars out of five. Nov 24, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
Tan Slacks and I did this route a little while back. It has some really cool moves, and the last few moves keep your heart pumping. Nov 24, 2004
I thought this route was really fun. So difficult to grade because the crux involves levitation techniques. Getting to first bolt has just the right amount of pucker factor!! Aug 15, 2004