Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Chris Gonzalez & Rob Stahl, 2/74
Page Views: 3,647 total · 18/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


108 Opinions

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Description

Fun short climb next -- some juggy face climbing, some hand and finger sized cracks. Good TR for beginners, worth a quick lead for moderates. Located in the small alcove directly in front of the picnic table.

Protection

Standard rack (medium sized cams and nuts), plus one bolt. Long slings helpful for anchor. Well-placed anchor will allow you to TR this climb, Duchess Left (5.4), and Duchess Right (5.7 OW)
Kelly
 
Kelly  
 
A nice climb for the grade, a little of everything. May 7, 2003
Jeffrey Davis
  5.6
Jeffrey Davis  
  5.6
I thought this was a fun climb. Kinda short but worth the time IMO. I agree that the route had a good variety. Jul 18, 2004
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Jeffrey, what in God's name are you doing climbing at the Feudal Wall in the middle of summer!!?? ;-) Jul 19, 2004
Jeffrey Davis
  5.6
Jeffrey Davis  
  5.6
It's not to bad once 6:00pm rolls around. Just gotta drink alot of water 8). Can't let the heat keep me down!! Jul 19, 2004
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
You're a braver man than me! Jul 19, 2004
Drederek
Olympia, WA
  5.6
Drederek   Olympia, WA
  5.6
Pretty decent Josh 5.6 up to the big ledges. In Randy's guide it is shown continuing thru the large flaring pod above and to the top. IMHO escaping that pod is a bit harder than 5.6, maybe even 5.9 for a couple moves. Dec 18, 2005
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
Fun lead at the grade, was surprised to find a relatively new bolt about 2/3 of the way up. Probably not necessary, but seems okay, as it is just a few inches from what looks like an old, chopped drive-in. Jan 18, 2010
Jonesey
  5.6
Jonesey  
  5.6
Good choice for a first trad lead. Jan 3, 2012
Hamik Mukelyan
San Francisco, CA
Hamik Mukelyan   San Francisco, CA
A couple of guidebooks show this route continuing through an alcove/overhang above the ledges. This is another route which is 5.10. Apr 16, 2012
David Cisneros
oceanside ca
5.6
David Cisneros   oceanside ca
5.6
Fun lead. Short but steep and well protected. Good pockets and cracks. Jan 13, 2014
Trevor Roberson
Joshua Tree, California
Trevor Roberson   Joshua Tree, California
Great climb with some good holds and even better gear. The bolt was probably not necessary but helped make the climb fun and not as serious. Next time I'll just do the first section and exit left on the ramp midway, the top portion is gritty and forgettable but has a great view of the climbs on Indian Palisades canyon. Dec 30, 2017
Mak Ely
Orange County
 
Mak Ely   Orange County
 
Nice variation. I would recommend to climb to the summit, following the chimney to the right. Can exit directly over the bulge (hard) or stem out and finish left (exposed). Walk off the back/north of the formation trending left. Mar 4, 2018