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Routes in Feudal Wall (Left Side)

Block, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castrum, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chessboard, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coco-Loco T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Court Jester T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coyote In the Bushes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crown Jewels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drawbridge, The TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duchess T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duchess Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Jewels TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Reina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marchesa T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Monaco S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Not Just another Pretty Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paper or Plastic? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pocket Pool S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 1326 T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Scaramouch T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Swishbah T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swishbah Variations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bill Todd, Todd Trautner and Robert Alexander, November 1986
Page Views: 532 total, 3/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located roughly in the center of the Feudal Wall, this is the route just left of Crown Jewels (5.9), and could potentially be done as a harder, but more solid alternative to the first pitch to that route.

Scramble up easy ledges to reach a bolt above a narrow ledge about 20' up, then make some reachy moves utilizing a black knob and some edges to reach easy terrain (sparse pro here) above the bolt. Higher, pass some horizontals and enter the crux - a steep seam/crack which offers good protection, although hanging out to place it may be problematic. The climbing is characterized by finger locks in a flared crack as you pull a bulge which gives way to easy but very grainy finishing moves. Large cams are useful in a grainy, flared crack 10' above the flat ledge atop the route.

While not a classic by any means, this route offers some decent climbing with protection that is better than apperances might suggest. One star out of five.

Protection

bolt (3/8"), pro to 3.5"

Photos

keli
San Diego, CA
keli   San Diego, CA
Fun route if you take it to the top. Warning for short folks, the first bolt is very hard to clip and the bulge move is very reachy. Jan 26, 2006
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
I do remember doing/trying and getting my butt kicked on what I thought was an 5.11a..b..or maybe c? That top section was.........well...........blank... Mar 27, 2005
Tan Slacks
Joshua tree
 
Tan Slacks   Joshua tree
 
I have to agree with Chris. Although not a classic, there are some classic moves. The bulge is downright fun and the finger crack (IMHO) fell a bit easier than 10c. I can't usually do 10c fingers! Mar 26, 2005