Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Bill Todd, Todd Trautner and Robert Alexander, November 1986
Page Views: 799 total · 4/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located roughly in the center of the Feudal Wall, this is the route just left of Crown Jewels (5.9), and could potentially be done as a harder, but more solid alternative to the first pitch to that route.

Scramble up easy ledges to reach a bolt above a narrow ledge about 20' up, then make some reachy moves utilizing a black knob and some edges to reach easy terrain (sparse pro here) above the bolt. Higher, pass some horizontals and enter the crux - a steep seam/crack which offers good protection, although hanging out to place it may be problematic. The climbing is characterized by finger locks in a flared crack as you pull a bulge which gives way to easy but very grainy finishing moves. Large cams are useful in a grainy, flared crack 10' above the flat ledge atop the route.

While not a classic by any means, this route offers some decent climbing with protection that is better than apperances might suggest. One star out of five.

Protection

bolt (3/8"), pro to 3.5"

Photos