Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bill Todd, Todd Trautner and Robert Alexander, November 1986
Page Views: 573 total · 3/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located roughly in the center of the Feudal Wall, this is the route just left of Crown Jewels (5.9), and could potentially be done as a harder, but more solid alternative to the first pitch to that route.

Scramble up easy ledges to reach a bolt above a narrow ledge about 20' up, then make some reachy moves utilizing a black knob and some edges to reach easy terrain (sparse pro here) above the bolt. Higher, pass some horizontals and enter the crux - a steep seam/crack which offers good protection, although hanging out to place it may be problematic. The climbing is characterized by finger locks in a flared crack as you pull a bulge which gives way to easy but very grainy finishing moves. Large cams are useful in a grainy, flared crack 10' above the flat ledge atop the route.

While not a classic by any means, this route offers some decent climbing with protection that is better than apperances might suggest. One star out of five.

Protection

bolt (3/8"), pro to 3.5"

Photos

Tan Slacks
Joshua tree
 
Tan Slacks   Joshua tree
 
I have to agree with Chris. Although not a classic, there are some classic moves. The bulge is downright fun and the finger crack (IMHO) fell a bit easier than 10c. I can't usually do 10c fingers! Mar 26, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
I do remember doing/trying and getting my butt kicked on what I thought was an 5.11a..b..or maybe c? That top section was.........well...........blank... Mar 27, 2005
keli
San Diego, CA
keli   San Diego, CA
Fun route if you take it to the top. Warning for short folks, the first bolt is very hard to clip and the bulge move is very reachy. Jan 26, 2006