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Routes in Feudal Wall (Left Side)

Block, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castrum, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chessboard, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coco-Loco T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Court Jester T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coyote In the Bushes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crown Jewels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drawbridge, The TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duchess T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duchess Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Jewels TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Reina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marchesa T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Monaco S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Not Just another Pretty Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paper or Plastic? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pocket Pool S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 1326 T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Scaramouch T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Swishbah T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swishbah Variations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Margy Floyd & Lisa Guindon, Spring 1993
Page Views: 786 total, 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The climb starts in a right-curving crack which becomes more of a straight-in crack higher as it dies out. Clip a bolt (crux) and then continue up the frictiony face past two more bolts to the top of the formation. Gear belay and walk/scramble off to the climber's right.

Short and not especially memorable but you could do a whole lot worse while in the vicinity. One star out of five.

Location

This is the left-most route on the Feudal Wall and lies immediately left of the creatively named Route 1326 and Coyote In the Bushes. This portion of the rock seems to be less popular which can be nice on those crowded days.

Protection

3 bolts, pro to 3"

Photos

Joe Brophy
San Diego
Joe Brophy   San Diego
Was glad to climb past 3 bolts on this one. The 1st bolt protects the crux well. Not in the Vogel guide otherwise it might see more traffic. Mar 28, 2011