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Routes in Feudal Wall (Left Side)

Block, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castrum, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chessboard, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coco-Loco T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Court Jester T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coyote In the Bushes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crown Jewels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drawbridge, The TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duchess T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duchess Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Jewels TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Reina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marchesa T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Monaco S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Not Just another Pretty Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paper or Plastic? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pocket Pool S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 1326 T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Scaramouch T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Swishbah T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swishbah Variations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,399 total, 16/month
Shared By: Steve Powell on Mar 30, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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35 Opinions

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Description

This easy route allows access to Coyote In the Bushes (5.10a). The bottom half of the route is fun.

Protection

small to large cams or nuts
J--
Southern California
  5.1
J--   Southern California
  5.1
I just took my kids (age 9 and 6) on this route 12,21,2015. I thought it was a great route to teach kids confidence on the rock. It was an easy solo to the top to set anchor for their top-rope, too. However, I met several free soloists that use this route as a "warm up" for their work out. In retrospect, maybe its better to teach kids to climb somewhere they are not constantly being passed up or otherwise encumbering this route. Dec 22, 2015
Gary Schenk
  5.2
Gary Schenk  
  5.2
I enjoyed it. Jan 22, 2015
Steve Powell  
 
Locker,
Wow, a blast from the past.
I just think there are better 5.2 cracks around. I agree with you though, you can sew this thing up. Jul 18, 2014
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.2
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.2
"I don't think this is a good first trad lead because of the lack of placement opportunities."

More than enough placements. Not sure how you could see it otherwise. Jul 17, 2014
agd
agd  
Feels like fourth class. Not worth doing, unless you need a quick way to the top. I only placed one piece in the first section and climbed up to the bolt anchor on top of Swishbah.

I don't think this is a good first trad lead because of the lack of placement opportunities. Dec 30, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.3
A great warm up, or introduction climb in JTree. I thought 5.2/5.3, but at that level, who cares? The start has gotten a bit thin over the years, due to holds breaking off. Mar 11, 2011
Eric ORafferty
Altadena, CA
 
Eric ORafferty   Altadena, CA
 
Yup, definitely a good first lead.

I think even I could solo this climb! Feb 25, 2009
colin tuck
Moab
colin tuck   Moab
good first lead, and fun solo. I took two friends here for their first leads on the same day, and solo cleaned both times. Dec 22, 2008
Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
 
Josh Hibbard   Los Angeles Area, CA
 
I agree with Locker. This route was my first trad lead four years ago. I have used this route twice to teach others on their first trad climbs...An enjoyable route for beginners. Mar 26, 2007
Isaac T.
Yokosuka, Japan
  5.2
Isaac T.   Yokosuka, Japan
  5.2
I agree it is a fun solo although a few hand holds are coming loose. Dont pull to hard Dec 26, 2006
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Fun solo! Fun variation following jugs to the right of the crack. Sep 8, 2006
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.2
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.2
I just noticed that the poster of this route has the "Bomb" on it...I totally disagree...sure it is quite easy...for those with a decent amount of experience...but for the beginner, and as a "First lead", it is perfect!!! I have used this route many times to teach how to place pro and basic "Crack" techniques...it also allows for good "anchor" work...not a bomb in my opinion...also it is a blast for those that enjoy easier soloing..... Sep 16, 2005