Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,735 total · 16/month
Shared By: Steve Powell on Mar 30, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


43 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This easy route allows access to Coyote In the Bushes (5.10a). The bottom half of the route is fun.

Protection

small to large cams or nuts

Photos

Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.2
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.2
I just noticed that the poster of this route has the "Bomb" on it...I totally disagree...sure it is quite easy...for those with a decent amount of experience...but for the beginner, and as a "First lead", it is perfect!!! I have used this route many times to teach how to place pro and basic "Crack" techniques...it also allows for good "anchor" work...not a bomb in my opinion...also it is a blast for those that enjoy easier soloing..... Sep 16, 2005
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Fun solo! Fun variation following jugs to the right of the crack. Sep 8, 2006
Isaac T.
Oceanside, CA
  5.2
Isaac T.   Oceanside, CA
  5.2
I agree it is a fun solo although a few hand holds are coming loose. Dont pull to hard Dec 26, 2006
Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
 
Josh Hibbard   Los Angeles Area, CA
 
I agree with Locker. This route was my first trad lead four years ago. I have used this route twice to teach others on their first trad climbs...An enjoyable route for beginners. Mar 26, 2007
colin tuck
Moab
colin tuck   Moab
good first lead, and fun solo. I took two friends here for their first leads on the same day, and solo cleaned both times. Dec 22, 2008
Eric ORafferty
Altadena, CA
 
Eric ORafferty   Altadena, CA
 
Yup, definitely a good first lead.

I think even I could solo this climb! Feb 25, 2009
Rodger Raubach  
  5.3
A great warm up, or introduction climb in JTree. I thought 5.2/5.3, but at that level, who cares? The start has gotten a bit thin over the years, due to holds breaking off. Mar 11, 2011
a d
Los Angeles, CA
a d   Los Angeles, CA
Feels like fourth class. Not worth doing, unless you need a quick way to the top. I only placed one piece in the first section and climbed up to the bolt anchor on top of Swishbah.

I don't think this is a good first trad lead because of the lack of placement opportunities. Dec 30, 2011
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.2
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.2
"I don't think this is a good first trad lead because of the lack of placement opportunities."

More than enough placements. Not sure how you could see it otherwise. Jul 17, 2014
Steve Powell
  5.2
Steve Powell  
  5.2
Locker,
Wow, a blast from the past.
I just think there are better 5.2 cracks around. I agree with you though, you can sew this thing up. Jul 18, 2014
Gary Schenk
  5.2
Gary Schenk  
  5.2
I enjoyed it. Jan 22, 2015
J--
Southern California
  5.1
J--   Southern California
  5.1
I just took my kids (age 9 and 6) on this route 12,21,2015. I thought it was a great route to teach kids confidence on the rock. It was an easy solo to the top to set anchor for their top-rope, too. However, I met several free soloists that use this route as a "warm up" for their work out. In retrospect, maybe its better to teach kids to climb somewhere they are not constantly being passed up or otherwise encumbering this route. Dec 22, 2015
Trevor Roberson
Joshua Tree, California
Trevor Roberson   Joshua Tree, California
Mostly forgettable but would make a good intro to Jtree climbing or if you can't find someone to rope up with, a good solo. I like to start on the black patina flake of Swishbah and then traverse left at the first horizontal cracks. Easy walk off also. Dec 30, 2017
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.2
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.2
For the record, this route is listed as being approximately 40ft. Closer to 80ft. May 13, 2018