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Routes in Feudal Wall (Left Side)

Block, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castrum, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chessboard, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coco-Loco T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Court Jester T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coyote In the Bushes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crown Jewels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drawbridge, The TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duchess T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duchess Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Jewels TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Reina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marchesa T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Monaco S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Not Just another Pretty Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paper or Plastic? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pocket Pool S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 1326 T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Scaramouch T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Swishbah T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swishbah Variations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: John Long and John Wolfe, March 1974
Page Views: 3,144 total · 16/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jan 1, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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High above the sea of topropes lies a beautiful right-facing corner. This is La Reina ("The Queen"), a short, sustained, and somewhat awkward handcrack with nice edges for the right hand and foot. Scramble up the 4th/low 5th class gully right of Swishbah to the base. This excellent route should not be missed!

A slung horn may be used for the belay.

To descend, scramble off to the west and back around to the base.


Light rack to 1".


This is a fun, if a bit short lead. A good test for those breaking into 5.9 leading - it's a little steep and pumpy but features solid jams. You'll probably want gear to 2-2.5" though, as I recall it being sustained hands and tight hands, though it's been a while since I've done it.

josh Jan 4, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
You can also get by nicely using just TCUs and small cams up to about a .75 BD, as the crack narrows toward the back. Jan 4, 2003
My bad memory I guess ;) Fun route nonetheless. I consider it an "overlooked" route for sure... Jan 5, 2003
The Gray Tradster  
Good short steep jaming exercise. Most of the flakes are creakers so place pro accordingly. Jan 14, 2004
Isaac T.
Oceanside, CA
Isaac T.   Oceanside, CA
It is about to get alot harder when i climbed it i felt two key hand holds move quite a bit. Dec 26, 2006
Careful with some of those flakes...a few are a bit flexy. Small gear works well. A bit short, or you could continue uprun-out un-protected chossy 5.4 jugs. If that's your sort of thing. Mar 25, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
Soloed this onsight, and the flakes up high are distressingly thin and creaky, definitely not recommended for your solo circuit. You can stay off the flakes altogether, but it makes the route a bit harder, perhaps 10b. Dec 7, 2010
Awkward, skip this unless you just must. Belay is weird too, careful not to let the rope suck the cams into the crack if the follower falls. I put a cam in low and then saddled the hump with the rope going down groove to keep it out of the crack. Dec 22, 2012
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
The start got my attention, but it seemed to ease from there. The flakes were a bit suspect, but not super scary or anything. I can understand them being more disconcerting on a solo. I just tossed my rope at the top of the crack and ran the belay strand over that to avoid it getting sucked down. Worthwhile tick. Feb 18, 2013

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