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Elevation: 3,100 ft 945 m
GPS: 34.09311, -116.15364
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Page Views: 83,751 total · 307/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Jun 23, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Feudal Wall is one of the larger formations in Indian Cove that offers a number of lengthy, quality moderates (mostly cracks) as well as quick and easy access. The wall is split at mid-height by a large ledge system allowing for topropes to be easily set on the lower half, as well as providing a convenient way down which makes the area quite popular with large crowds of topropers. Many climbs continue to the top of the formation but most suffer from some degree of loose and/or grainy rock (exceptions do exist).

Moving from the climbers left to right, some fun climbs include the three Duchess climbs (Duchess Left, 5.4; Duchess, 5.6; and Duchess Right, 5.7) -- especially the right, which is a classic 5.7 off-width. The Castrum (5.10a) is a classic thin crack/tips layback. The start of Crown Jewels is (in my opinion) a bit of a sandbag at 5.7, but this is one of the climbs that remains fun all the way to the top. Over at the right end of the formation, The Mikado (5.6) is a fun route, and don't miss the chance to hang a top-rope and take a shot at the California Crack (5.11a). One notable climb on the upper level, near the left-hand side of the formation is La Reina (5.9) a beautiful right-facing dihedral with a splitter handcrack in the back.

Finally, the Feudal Wall offers an afternoon's worth of fourth and easy fifth scrambling/free-soloing which is excellent for keeping the pulse rate up or keeping the friends occupied while you get some more climbing in.

Getting There Suggest change

The Feudal Wall is the next to last wall you pass (it's just before the Short Wall) as you follow the Indian Cove Road to the southeast through the family campsites and out towards Rattlesnake Canyon. Parking is available right at the base of the rock, so the approach is minimal, at the most.

46 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Feudal Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 163
Duchess
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 130
The Mikado
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 43
Crown Jewels
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 64
La Reina
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 85
The Castrum
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 37
Noriega Does Panama
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Coco-Loco
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 76
Pet or Meat
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 29
California Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 4
Panther Crack
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 65
Monaco
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Pocket Pool
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Duchess Feudal Wall (Left Side)
 163
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
The Mikado Feudal Wall (Right Side)
 130
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Crown Jewels Feudal Wall (Left Side)
 43
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
La Reina Feudal Wall (Left Side)
 64
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Castrum Feudal Wall (Left Side)
 85
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation Feudal Wall (Left Side)
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Noriega Does Panama Feudal Wall (Right Side)
 37
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Coco-Loco Feudal Wall (Left Side)
 16
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Pet or Meat Feudal Wall (Right Side)
 76
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
California Crack Feudal Wall (Right Side)
 29
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Panther Crack Feudal Wall (Right Side)
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Monaco Feudal Wall (Left Side)
 65
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Pocket Pool Feudal Wall (Left Side)
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Feudal Wall »

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