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Areas in Feudal Wall

Feudal Wall (Left Side) 19 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Feudal Wall (Right Side) 14 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18

Description

The Feudal Wall is one of the larger formations in Indian Cove that offers a number of lengthy, quality moderates (mostly cracks) as well as quick and easy access. The wall is split at mid-height by a large ledge system allowing for topropes to be easily set on the lower half, as well as providing a convenient way down which makes the area quite popular with large crowds of topropers. Many climbs continue to the top of the formation but most suffer from some degree of loose and/or grainy rock (exceptions do exist).

Moving from the climbers left to right, some fun climbs include the three Duchess climbs (Duchess Left, 5.4; Duchess, 5.6; and Duchess Right, 5.7) -- especially the right, which is a classic 5.7 off-width. The Castrum (5.10a) is a classic thin crack/tips layback. The start of Crown Jewels is (in my opinion) a bit of a sandbag at 5.7, but this is one of the climbs that remains fun all the way to the top. Over at the right end of the formation, The Mikado (5.6) is a fun route, and don't miss the chance to hang a top-rope and take a shot at the California Crack (5.11a). One notable climb on the upper level, near the left-hand side of the formation is La Reina (5.9) a beautiful right-facing dihedral with a splitter handcrack in the back.

Finally, the Feudal Wall offers an afternoon's worth of fourth and easy fifth scrambling/free-soloing which is excellent for keeping the pulse rate up or keeping the friends occupied while you get some more climbing in.

Getting There

The Feudal Wall is the next to last wall you pass (it's just before the Short Wall) as you follow the Indian Cove Road to the southeast through the family campsites and out towards Rattlesnake Canyon. Parking is available right at the base of the rock, so the approach is minimal, at the most.

41 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Feudal Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
The Mikado
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crown Jewels
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Reina
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Castrum
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noriega Does Panama
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pet or Meat
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
California Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Panther Crack
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Monaco
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Mikado Feudal Wall (Right Side) 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Crown Jewels Feudal Wall (Left Side) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
La Reina Feudal Wall (Left Side) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Castrum Feudal Wall (Left Side) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Noriega Does Panama Feudal Wall (Right Side) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation Feudal Wall (Left Side) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Pet or Meat Feudal Wall (Right Side) 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
California Crack Feudal Wall (Right Side) 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Panther Crack Feudal Wall (Right Side) 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Monaco Feudal Wall (Left Side) 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Feudal Wall »

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