Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,258 total · 15/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 29, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Just right of "Mikado", Move up, then left under a roof. Then straight up.

Protection

Pro to 2.5".

Photos

Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
 
Josh Hibbard   Los Angeles Area, CA
 
A very fun climb. This climb has a fun little roof about 15-20 feet off the floor. Mar 26, 2007
Tradiban  
 
Red C3 perfect for the crux. Dec 22, 2012
Gets an "R" rating in the Miramontes guide, but I don't think it is warranted. You can pre-protect the start by scrambling up into the "cave" and threading a 4' sling through a nice hole under the roof. An amazing knee-bar (no hands rest) takes the bite out of the crux and allows for easy gear placement. Dec 29, 2012
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
Going with just that first sling and placing next at the knee bar would be runout, if one has to rely on not falling through an unprotected stretch. Danger not so much from decking but from the possible big penji fall smacking leader rightward back against the side of the cave, as one local did a long while ago and broke his back (full recovery). Other interesting first pro also possible at mentioned spot, that would more readily allow placement on the go, without pre-placing. Feb 18, 2013
tons of fun moves, if youve got good foot work and wear pants i felt like there were so many places you could half hold and place a piece in the roof, tons of possibilities get creative. knee moves make it not to pumpy. Apr 15, 2013
J Kazu
Los Angeles, CA
J Kazu   Los Angeles, CA
Very fun. Placing gear to protect the roof before the good stance at the crux above the lip was tricky; small, shallow and limited placements. Jan 2, 2017
Anthony Hugo Almanza
Phoenix, AZ
 
Anthony Hugo Almanza   Phoenix, AZ
 
Red C3 is pretty awesome for the transition to vert. I also found later on inspection that a yellow DMM offset alloy (#7?) fits even better. Feb 23, 2017