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Routes in Feudal Wall (Right Side)

Arizona Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Burning Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
California Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Castles Burning T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dry Lake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dum Roodle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
El Rey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mikado, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minion T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Noriega Does Panama S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Panama Canal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Panther Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pet Sounds T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Pet or Meat T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Princess T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return of General Noriega, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Socrates Sucks TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whispering Chickens S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Bob Gaines, Cyndie Bransford & Steve McCallister, January 1990
Page Views: 2,497 total, 13/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 5, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Located on the far right side of the wall, this route climbs a squat formation with a right slanting crack on it's right side. Scramble up to the base and begin at a right slanting crack. From here the route climbs up and left then straight up to the top and a ledge where there is an anchor.

A steep (for Josh) route that is somewhat tricky and may seem hard for the grade first time on.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all 3/8")
mhagny
  5.10c/d
mhagny  
  5.10c/d
Such fun! Nov 30, 2017
cachu
 
cachu  
 
This is a sport route. Fun. Nov 28, 2016
Phil Esra  
 
Really fun, balancy, thoughtful moves on "medium" quality rock. Safely bolted. Mar 18, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
I can't lead it. I can't even follow follow it clean. Went out today to my nemesis with a friend and was mentally prepared to be the cover shot for belayer magazine. After watching my friend float it I thought that perhaps my memory from attempt 2002 was foggy and gave it a shot. pfff!

Pretty tough and sequential getting between the 2nd & 3rd bolt. That said, the moves coming off the stance at the 3rd isn't that easy at 5'7" either. Great route, terrific varnish, quality rock and nice bolt placements (or as much as I could tell not actually being on the sharp end).

I've said many times over the years it's a hard 10c.........and I said it again today. Proud lead for anyone who does it. Do it once, do it a dozen times it will always be a good tick for those who can! Jan 26, 2012
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10d
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10d
today it felt more like a 5.10d headed towards an 5.15. Couldn't make the moves. In the sun until late afternoon. Recommended winter climb... Jan 2, 2005
Tan Slacks
Joshua tree
Tan Slacks   Joshua tree
The name comes from a sign that was observed in the Michael Moore Movie "Roger and me". He actually made a sequel to "Roger and me" called "Pet or Meat" It refers to a woman who was so down on her luck at finding a job in Flint, Michigan that she raised rabbits. She would skin some for meat sale and the others were sold as pets. Hence, Pet or Meat.. The woman was so interesting that she was a highlight of the first film and became the focus of the sequel. I recommend both films, and the climb. Aug 15, 2004
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The location of the anchor and lack of anything permanent on it makes this a good climb to belay and walk off. Nov 23, 2003