The Mikado
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 34.09313, -116.15342 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 5,300 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Morley on Jan 1, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a fun route with a crux about 10' off the deck. Good protection make this an excellent choice for the budding leader.
Gear anchor.
Descent
Option 1: Walk quite a ways west (climber's left) along ledge system and downclimb 4th/low 5th class gully to the right of Swishbah.
Option 2: You can also descend between The Mikado and Crown Jewels by crawling through a small hole and down a couple of wide chimneys. It will drop you a lot closer to your packs, but it's a bit of a grunt and it may not save you much time.
Option 3: Traverse west (left) on ledges and through a slot to the belay/rap anchors at the top of Monaco; a short (~60ft) and steep rappel brings you quickly back to the ground.



14 Comments