Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Feudal Wall (Right Side)

Arizona Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Burning Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
California Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Castles Burning T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dry Lake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dum Roodle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
El Rey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mikado, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minion T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Noriega Does Panama S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Panama Canal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Panther Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pet Sounds T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Pet or Meat T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Princess T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return of General Noriega, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Socrates Sucks TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whispering Chickens S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,835 total · 15/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jan 1, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

73 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This is a fun route with a crux about 10' off the deck. Good protection make this an excellent choice for the budding leader.

Gear anchor.

To descend, walk quite a ways left along ledge system and downclimb 4th/low 5th class gully to rhe right of Swishbah.


Light rack.
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
Curiously, there are multiple 5.7 moves on this steep 5.6, which manages to be both greasy and grainy at the same time. A lot of fun, and plenty of pro. Feb 2, 2014
A nice little climb. You can get off the Feudal Wall from the top of Mikado(and avoid further up- or down-climbing thru nasty-looking chimneys) by traversing West (left) on ledges and through a slot to the belay/rap anchors at the top of Monaco; a short (~60ft) and steep rappel brings you quickly back to the ground. Jan 3, 2012
This is the best 5.6 I've climbed at J Tree. Jan 25, 2010
Great hand jams on the upper section, super fun climb! Dec 27, 2009
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Fun short route with the crux at the start of the open book. Above the crux it's a blast and has opportunities for hand/foot jams and holds outside the crack as well. Mar 16, 2009
San Jose, CA
rhyang   San Jose, CA
A #4 camalot protects the first move. We descended by traversing to climber's left across an exposed ledge system to a bolted rap station. Nov 27, 2006
Jeffrey Davis
Jeffrey Davis  
Top roped this route with a #11 BD hex #2 camalot, and 2 30' slings, one sling cinched around a rock up top. Mostly large pro needed for TR. There is and easy ascent to set the top rope about 20' left of the duchess, once on top, just keep going over til you get to the climb. Nice crack climb! Dec 21, 2004
Short but felt a bit stiff for a 5.6. Thanks, Skip! Dec 5, 2004
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
The start's a little tricky, a fun route, too short. Should've read the descent beta, ended up climbing over the back and walking around (d'oh!) Nov 24, 2003
Absolutely stellar. Jun 5, 2003
You can also descend between The Mikado and Crown Jewels by crawling through a small hole and down a couple of wide chimneys. It will drop you a lot closer to your packs, but it's a bit of a grunt and it may not save you much time. Feb 10, 2003