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Routes in Feudal Wall (Right Side)

Arizona Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Burning Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
California Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Castles Burning T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dry Lake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dum Roodle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
El Rey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mikado, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minion T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Noriega Does Panama S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Panama Canal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Panther Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pet Sounds T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Pet or Meat T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Princess T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return of General Noriega, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Socrates Sucks TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whispering Chickens S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Yvonne MacPherson, Cyndie Bransford & Todd Gordon, January 1990
Page Views: 1,252 total, 8/month
Shared By: C Miller on Apr 8, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Interesting and well-protected friction up a clean northeast-facing slab. Get on this and get your friction on; much better than some of the more popular but no less accessible routes in the immediate area. Two stars out of five.

Retro-bolted by a member of the FA party this now has two more bolts than it originally did. The added bolts to skip, if you wish to do it in it's original style, are the first and last bolts.

Location

The furthest right route on the wall, right of Panama Canal.

Protection

5 bolts (5/16", 3/8"), 2 bolt anchor/rap (3/8", shared with Panama Canal)

Photos

mike cummings
29 Palms, California
mike cummings   29 Palms, California
the 2nd bolt is currently missing 5 days ago
Vlada Matena
  5.10a/b
Vlada Matena  
  5.10a/b
The rock on the crux move to the left and just above the 2nd bolt is getting somewhat polished. The move was a solid 5.10a, but it might be 5.10b now. The move is well protected by the bolt though. Good route!! Jan 1, 2017
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10b
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10b
Short day and limited time, this route was part of the day's sports plan. Remembering leading it a a dozen years ago and looking up at it I figure how bad could it be. It's pseudo low angle, scoops and oh joy 5 bolts compared to the 3 bolts previous. Let's go!

Much like Adam, I found the crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. I'm not much for down climbing slabs so upward was my only option. Eases somewhat but not exactly easy from the 3rd to 4th either. Happy to summit without incident sans my whining to my belayer.

Nice enough, might do it again in 2025. Nov 13, 2013
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10a
Did this route today. To me the crux was exiting the 2nd bolt, but this climb is not a one move wonder. Consistent 5.9 moves afterward doesn't allow one to let their guard down. Three stars out of four when compared to other similarly short routes in the area. Mar 11, 2013
Bob Gaines  
 
This has become one of my favorite friction slabs in Indian Cove. Although short, it's very sustained with some pure smearing required. The graininess is long gone.

It has been retro bolted by members of the first ascent team and now has 5 bolts, making it a safe and sane lead, with the bolts closely spaced enough to be considered a sport climb. Plus you can use the 2-bolt belay/rappel anchor at the top of Panama Canal.

Gets shade in the afternoon. Two out of five stars. Mar 1, 2013
Justin Slagle
Palm Desert, CA
 
Justin Slagle   Palm Desert, CA
 
I know this climb is short and for that reason probably only deserves 1 star, but for some reason, I like this climb a lot. The rock is good with no hands, only smears, makes you think a bit more than usual. Plus, even though its in one of the more popular areas of indian cove, it's usually away from the masses. May 26, 2010
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Always a good bet when it's warm, this northeast-facing slab is well-protected and has a trivial approach. The downside is it's shortness and the somewhat grainy nature of the rock. Two stars out of five. Apr 12, 2005