Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jim Boone 1978, FFA: John Long & Keith Cunning, 1979
Page Views: 1,766 total · 8/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


52 Opinions

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Description

Fun climb -- thin edges and smears to fingertip lieback moves near the top. A great opportunity to get familiar with JTree friction on an easily TR'd climb. Also a great climb to break into the 5.10 range and boost that ego! Popular.

Protection

Thin (small nuts, cams to 1" at the biggest)and difficult to protect. Easily TR'd with some long slings.

Photos

The guide is incorrect. The route shown as 'The Castrum' is actually Duchess (5.6-5.7? mixed pockets and a off again on again flaring crack). Castrum is the thin finger crack/face just to the right of #4. If you look carefully, you can see the chalk in the crack on the upper section.

Fun thin route, but definitely hard to protect and thin. Don't forget the aliens! Jan 8, 2003
Woody Stark
  5.10b
Woody Stark  
  5.10b
I've led this route twice in the last year, and I disagree with the rating. I'd give it at least 10b instead of an a. It's a sweet, little route that requires a bit more attention to pro placement than usual. It should also be given a star--maybe two. Nov 21, 2003
C Miller
CA
  5.9+
C Miller   CA  
  5.9+
A nice climb...all 20' of it! This climb offers a few good moves but is over far too quickly to stick in your long term memory. Nov 23, 2003
Steve Powell
5.10a
Steve Powell  
5.10a
Yeah this is a short route, but I like to climb it at least once a season. I feel that the 10a rating is on. Nov 23, 2003
Steve Powell
5.10a
Steve Powell  
5.10a
I done this route three times, and I agree it's short, but it is fun. Nov 21, 2004
Caroline
  5.10a
Caroline  
  5.10a
The pro is actually fine if you have green and yellow aliens and are willing to place nuts. Dec 5, 2004
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Fun route! Sep 8, 2006
tony grice
  5.10b
tony grice  
  5.10b
short and sweet. 10b is fair. Jan 11, 2007
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
This route actually protects really well with stoppers and TCUs or the equivalent. Given that, it'd be a shame to toprope it, which seems to be the norm for many these days. Apr 9, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
I think there is 1 hard move on this line more difficult than 10a. Apr 2, 2009
Patrick Eger
  5.10-
Patrick Eger  
  5.10-


Short but very fun combination of smearing, crimping, liebacking and jamming. All in 20 feet or so =) Nov 16, 2010
Bryan Davenport
29palms
 
Bryan Davenport   29palms
 
Slick in the heat/sun, but climbed alright. Used the Manaco bolts since we didn't mind the swing. Apr 16, 2011