Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,516 total · 8/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Jan 14, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


24 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is on the left side of Feudal Wall fifteen feet to the right of Scaramouch. Climb the right side of the flake with good protection all of the way. Enjoy!

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
 
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA
 
Vogel's Guidebook and the new Miramontes guidebook has the climb going up the middle all the way which in my opinion is more fun! However know this if you climb the crack up top it is in my opinion a pg-13 if you fall you hit a ledge but man it's super fun! Jan 16, 2013
Mak Ely
Orange County
 
Mak Ely   Orange County
 
I agree with Jeff and would recommend continuing straight up from the left/second "crack" line. A good side pull into a bomber finger lock turns you onto great holds. Easily protected with a black alien cam. Oh and then continue straight up the face through the shallow pit. a #3 BD cam is great here. Makes fora great finish to a somewhat lackluster start. 5.8? eh. Pg-13? Not if you get that black alien in!
I would recommend doing this variation up the crack, given I have not tried the jug haul out right.. looked unappetizing. Yes Super Fun move and makes racking up worth it. Set up a TR in seems for your second to clean and then walk off. Quite a memorable sequence through that crack to finish mantel. Again, I'd recommend it if you couldn't tell. Mar 4, 2018