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Routes in Feudal Wall (Left Side)

Block, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castrum, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chessboard, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coco-Loco T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Court Jester T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coyote In the Bushes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crown Jewels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drawbridge, The TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duchess T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duchess Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Jewels TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Reina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marchesa T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Monaco S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Not Just another Pretty Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paper or Plastic? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pocket Pool S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 1326 T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Scaramouch T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Swishbah T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swishbah Variations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,485 total · 8/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Jan 14, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is on the left side of Feudal Wall fifteen feet to the right of Scaramouch. Climb the right side of the flake with good protection all of the way. Enjoy!

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
 
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA
 
Vogel's Guidebook and the new Miramontes guidebook has the climb going up the middle all the way which in my opinion is more fun! However know this if you climb the crack up top it is in my opinion a pg-13 if you fall you hit a ledge but man it's super fun! Jan 16, 2013
Matt Kelly
Orange County
 
Matt Kelly   Orange County
 
I agree with Jeff and would recommend continuing straight up from the left/second "crack" line. A good side pull into a bomber finger lock turns you onto great holds. Easily protected with a black alien cam. Oh and then continue straight up the face through the shallow pit. a #3 BD cam is great here. Makes fora great finish to a somewhat lackluster start. 5.8? eh. Pg-13? Not if you get that black alien in!
I would recommend doing this variation up the crack, given I have not tried the jug haul out right.. looked unappetizing. Yes Super Fun move and makes racking up worth it. Set up a TR in seems for your second to clean and then walk off. Quite a memorable sequence through that crack to finish mantel. Again, I'd recommend it if you couldn't tell. Mar 4, 2018

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