Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Feudal Wall (Left Side)

Block, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castrum, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chessboard, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coco-Loco T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Court Jester T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coyote In the Bushes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crown Jewels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drawbridge, The TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duchess T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duchess Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Jewels TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Reina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marchesa T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Monaco S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Not Just another Pretty Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paper or Plastic? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pocket Pool S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 1326 T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Scaramouch T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Swishbah T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swishbah Variations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown; FL: Hamish Morrison, Mike Rodrigue, Alan Bartlett, Tom Atherton & Todd Gordon 1/90
Page Views: 668 total, 4/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Oct 13, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a short, clean route up a small block that is, in my opinion, 5.10b/c. It's located on the left side of the Feudal Wall and is a good way to end the day.

Protection

one bolt, pro to 3" (including anchor)

Photos

Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Short, but tricky! Sep 15, 2006
Bo Johnston
  5.10a
Bo Johnston  
  5.10a
Bring some finger to hand sized cams for the first and final horizontal cracks. Those combined with the bolt make this a safe lead. There are two bolts at the top but they are just hangers and require a walk-off to the left. Feb 22, 2006
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10a
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10a
I have led this thing and also top roped it as we did today. I find it more fun on a top rope because you can get off route and make it more difficult without the worries of falling. It is not a bomb as mentioned by someone else, but unless you want to just "tick" off a 5.10a or every other rock of the grade is crowded, this one certainly is not a "must do" in my opinion. But since it is so short, when it's all winding down, give it a whirl.........has a move or two you might remember..... Feb 15, 2005
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
This climb is aka - Teenage Mutant Ninja Brits. Really short and forgettable, but it doesn't quite deserve a bomb IMO. Squeaks by with half a star out of five. Feb 1, 2005
Woody Stark  
 
Okay, I went back. I climbed a line a bit left of the bolt and straight up to the top of the rock. Two comments: it's at least a 10b and deranged. The route probably swings to the right a bit and to the crack. I'm making much of this because upon glancing back at the route, I realized that going my way would result in a bounce or two if one popped near the summit of the rock; go for the crack. Jan 21, 2004
Woody Stark  
 
The next time I'm around the area, I'll do it again and look for the other line. It won't be the first time I "discovered" a harder way to do a route. Dec 18, 2003
Chrys Mitchell
  5.10b
Chrys Mitchell  
  5.10b
I'd have to agree with Woody Stark's rating (though I may be influenced by having done the route with him). Perhaps we took a different line beyond the bolt than the "one move 5.10a" line? At any rate, the line we took had three or four moves of ten, and the hardest move seemed harder than .10a. I'd second the recommendation to take gear for the horizontal, though. The bolt is indeed a long way off the deck. Dec 18, 2003
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
Well, personally I believe that this climb is a one move 5.10a, the rest is about 5.8. Worth doing, make sure you take a TCU for the horizontal. The bolt's a long way up. Nov 24, 2003
Steve Powell
5.10a
Steve Powell  
5.10a
I enjoy this route also. Tricky start of the ledge.Not easier than 10a. 10b, probably not. Nov 23, 2003