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Routes in Feudal Wall (Left Side)

Block, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castrum, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chessboard, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coco-Loco T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Court Jester T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coyote In the Bushes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crown Jewels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drawbridge, The TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duchess T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duchess Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Jewels TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Reina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marchesa T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Monaco S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Not Just another Pretty Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paper or Plastic? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pocket Pool S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 1326 T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Scaramouch T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Swishbah T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swishbah Variations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Cyndie Bransford & Gabe, February 1989
Page Views: 1,064 total, 6/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Jan 14, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

This is a curious route: the chalk line moves up well right of the first bolt then left between the first and second bolts; and, after leading it, I understand. Getting to the first bolt is serious business. If you blow it, ask the medics for demerol; it's a trip.

Protection

4 bolts, pro to 3" for anchors

Photos

Led it, didn't even want to imagine what it would of been if I zipped before the first bolt ! other than that the slab is interesting, gotta trust your feet ! Jan 7, 2017
Garrett Harmsen
Park City, UT
  5.10
Garrett Harmsen   Park City, UT
  5.10
Perfectly safe and definitely not R, if you fell before the 1st bolt you would land easily on the flat, spacious ledge Dec 11, 2013
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
The hardest part is between bolt 1 and 2. Did it in 5.10 (appropo) Camp 4s today (Toproped). Proves that you don't need edging skills on this one--you need smearing skills. Mar 8, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10 PG13
Hard at the start. Apr 2, 2009
Bo Johnston
  5.10a PG13
Bo Johnston  
  5.10a PG13
If you bring some medium cams for the belayer at the ledge the leader could feel a little better about pulling for the first bolt. (we didn't but...) Feb 22, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Decent enough climbing on this route and somehow it's position on the left edge of the wall makes this less crowded than some of the other routes.

This route is somewhat infamous due to the fact that a number of years back a climber died on this route due to a crucial fixed pin being misssing from the horizontal (which has since been replaced with a bolt) and the climber continued past, fell and hit his head.

There were approximately 50-75 fixed pins stolen from JT that season, some of which have been replaced, some not. Rumor has it the thieves were some dirtbag climbers who wanted to put together a "cheap" pin rack for The Valley. Jan 22, 2004