Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Cyndie Bransford & Gabe, February 1989
Page Views: 1,284 total · 7/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Jan 14, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

This is a curious route: the chalk line moves up well right of the first bolt then left between the first and second bolts; and, after leading it, I understand. Getting to the first bolt is serious business. If you blow it, ask the medics for demerol; it's a trip.

Protection

4 bolts, pro to 3" for anchors

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Decent enough climbing on this route and somehow it's position on the left edge of the wall makes this less crowded than some of the other routes.

This route is somewhat infamous due to the fact that a number of years back a climber died on this route due to a crucial fixed pin being misssing from the horizontal (which has since been replaced with a bolt) and the climber continued past, fell and hit his head.

There were approximately 50-75 fixed pins stolen from JT that season, some of which have been replaced, some not. Rumor has it the thieves were some dirtbag climbers who wanted to put together a "cheap" pin rack for The Valley. Jan 22, 2004
Bo Johnston
  5.10a PG13
Bo Johnston  
  5.10a PG13
If you bring some medium cams for the belayer at the ledge the leader could feel a little better about pulling for the first bolt. (we didn't but...) Feb 22, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10 PG13
Hard at the start. Apr 2, 2009
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
The hardest part is between bolt 1 and 2. Did it in 5.10 (appropo) Camp 4s today (Toproped). Proves that you don't need edging skills on this one--you need smearing skills. Mar 8, 2012
Garrett Harmsen
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Garrett Harmsen   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Perfectly safe and definitely not R, if you fell before the 1st bolt you would land easily on the flat, spacious ledge Dec 11, 2013
William Nicolas
Pasadena
 
William Nicolas   Pasadena
 
Led it, didn't even want to imagine what it would of been if I zipped before the first bolt ! other than that the slab is interesting, gotta trust your feet ! Jan 7, 2017