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Scaramouch

5.2, Trad, 40 ft,  Avg: 1.4 from 44 votes
FA: unknown
California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Indian Cove Cam… > Feudal Wall > Feudal Wall (Left Side)

Description

This easy route allows access to Coyote In the Bushes (5.10a). The bottom half of the route is fun.

Protection

small to large cams or nuts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"Scaramouch".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Scaramouch". Photo by Blitzo.
Kai (6)
[Hide Photo] Kai (6)
Scaramouch and Feudal Wall formation.
[Hide Photo] Scaramouch and Feudal Wall formation.
Two climbers finishing the last half of the climb.
[Hide Photo] Two climbers finishing the last half of the climb.
The climber just finished the first half of the climb.
[Hide Photo] The climber just finished the first half of the climb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.2
[Hide Comment] I just noticed that the poster of this route has the "Bomb" on it...I totally disagree...sure it is quite easy...for those with a decent amount of experience...but for the beginner, and as a "First lead", it is perfect!!! I have used this route many times to teach how to place pro and basic "Crack" techniques...it also allows for good "anchor" work...not a bomb in my opinion...also it is a blast for those that enjoy easier soloing..... Sep 16, 2005
Blitzo
 
[Hide Comment] Fun solo! Fun variation following jugs to the right of the crack. Sep 8, 2006
Isaac T.
Oceanside, CA
  5.2
[Hide Comment] I agree it is a fun solo although a few hand holds are coming loose. Dont pull to hard Dec 26, 2006
Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I agree with Locker. This route was my first trad lead four years ago. I have used this route twice to teach others on their first trad climbs...An enjoyable route for beginners. Mar 26, 2007
colin tuck
Moab
[Hide Comment] good first lead, and fun solo. I took two friends here for their first leads on the same day, and solo cleaned both times. Dec 22, 2008
Eric ORafferty
Altadena, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Yup, definitely a good first lead.

I think even I could solo this climb! Feb 25, 2009
[Hide Comment] A great warm up, or introduction climb in JTree. I thought 5.2/5.3, but at that level, who cares? The start has gotten a bit thin over the years, due to holds breaking off. Mar 11, 2011
a d
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] Feels like fourth class. Not worth doing, unless you need a quick way to the top. I only placed one piece in the first section and climbed up to the bolt anchor on top of Swishbah.

I don't think this is a good first trad lead because of the lack of placement opportunities. Dec 30, 2011
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.2
[Hide Comment] "I don't think this is a good first trad lead because of the lack of placement opportunities."

More than enough placements. Not sure how you could see it otherwise. Jul 17, 2014
Steve Powell
  5.2
[Hide Comment] Locker,
Wow, a blast from the past.
I just think there are better 5.2 cracks around. I agree with you though, you can sew this thing up. Jul 18, 2014
Gary Schenk
  5.2
[Hide Comment] I enjoyed it. Jan 22, 2015
J--
Southern California
  5.1
[Hide Comment] I just took my kids (age 9 and 6) on this route 12,21,2015. I thought it was a great route to teach kids confidence on the rock. It was an easy solo to the top to set anchor for their top-rope, too. However, I met several free soloists that use this route as a "warm up" for their work out. In retrospect, maybe its better to teach kids to climb somewhere they are not constantly being passed up or otherwise encumbering this route. Dec 22, 2015
Trevor Roberson
Joshua Tree, California
[Hide Comment] Mostly forgettable but would make a good intro to Jtree climbing or if you can't find someone to rope up with, a good solo. I like to start on the black patina flake of Swishbah and then traverse left at the first horizontal cracks. Easy walk off also. Dec 30, 2017
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.2
[Hide Comment] For the record, this route is listed as being approximately 40ft. Closer to 80ft. May 13, 2018