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Cut Loose 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kirk Miller, Adam Schrader
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,573
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Aug 30, 2009

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Description 

Clip the first two bolts on Bear's Choice then head left into the middle of the roof. Getting the jug that lets you Cut Loose is the crux, match and let 'em fly.


Location 

This climbs the center of the roof, up... up... and away.


Protection 

7 bolts to chains.



Photos of Cut Loose Slideshow Add Photo
Easy climbing up to the roof section.
Easy climbing up to the roof section.
The roof crux.
The roof crux.
A nice rest before the crux roof.
A nice rest before the crux roof.
On the easy part.
On the easy part.
Comments on Cut Loose Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 26, 2014
By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Sep 11, 2009

VERY height-dependent crux! Felt 11+ to me, but I still didn't get it... (I'm 5'9"). Another friend (also short) got it and said it felt 11+/12-. Kirk makes it look easy, but he's 6'2"....

By Doug Redosh
Sep 16, 2009

I am 6'2" and still had trouble. Wear pants for this one, as it is a knee scratcher.

By Sung
From: Denver, CO
Sep 30, 2009

Tough route if you are shorter (I'm 5'8"). I led the other 11 here clean, but no chance on this one even on toprope.

By koreo
From: Denver, CO
Oct 1, 2009

Lead this one today in that wicked wind. First try, got to the crux and was perplexed. The feet are horrible. I personally thought this wasn't very height dependent after I figured it out. Sure a tall person will have an easier time, but I'm 5'6" and I 'sent it on my second attempt. You have to get creative with your feet. Don't get me wrong though, the move to start the crux is hard as hell. If anyone wants my beta give a shout and I'd be happy to post it.

By dameeser
From: denver
Mar 31, 2010

I just jumped for it, so did my partner. Feet were not that important to me on that one.

By Cael Bean
Apr 19, 2010

Climbed this on Sunday with 4 stitches in my right index finger, did not feel like an 11, felt more like a stiff 10. It really is a one move wonder, A nice undercling to a few good jugs, pull up then place your feet. Did it for the first time lead last fall also.

By Sauce
From: Golden, CO.
Mar 14, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Yup, very height-dependent.... I am 5'11", and I think it would be a different move altogether if I was 5'10". This is one where reach makes a difference for sure!

By Fred C.
From: Golden, CO
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route. Tough crux move if shorter (I'm 5'6"), but very doable. Took me a few tries to get it. It's an easy climb to the roof and after the crux move over it, but those few moves in between definitely define it and make it the 10+/11- that it is. Great bolt protection throughout.

By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
May 7, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

I'm 5'8" and had to stretch pretty darn hard to reach the onsight (the key hold is an optical illusion in that it doesn't look like anything from below). After you gain the positive edge, it's just a high step and a hard pull to the easy stuff on the headwall above. This climb receives no fun points from me. Not worth doing IMO unless you are tall and trying to add an eleven to your tick list; it is an annoying 10+/11- move with ledge fall potential in the midst of a dull 5.7 face. Sorry to be such a negative Nancy; on a lighter note, the 11 face around the corner is among the best in the Denver area :)

By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
May 10, 2011

I think this is the worst route at the cliff... maybe it is my being short bias, but it isn't any fun. Boring 5.7 climbing to the roof followed by a ridiculous reach. If you can get the jug, it is one interesting 10+ move to pull over the roof, followed by more boring climbing.

I'm way too short to reach the jug and was trying to bump up on crap, but the rope kept getting in my way. Either you don't clip the bolt above the roof and risk a ledge fall, or the rope makes in very hard to get your hand up and your foot around.

By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jun 24, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Interesting 5.10-ish moves for the first two clips give way to the roof. There was a hornet's nest forming at the roof which I demolished before finishing out the climb. The crux sequence is fun, and a bit committing. There are some small holds that are useful for shorter climbers under the roof. One 5.11 move guarantees the summit. You can clip with one hand off the jug off the roof with your feet dangling, not that I'd ever do anything like that ;-). Fun for spectators and climbers alike. Give it a go!

By Jonathan Dykhuis
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

The roof is interesting. The rest of the climb is enjoyable but not difficult.

By Robbie Flick
From: Denver, CO
Jul 30, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Definitely height-dependent. I'm 5'11" and have to leap for it.

By J P
From: Denver, CO
Aug 28, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Even at 5'8" I didn't have to jump far to get the rail on the roof. I'm not sure height is an issue so much as committing to reach over -- it definitely feels exposed up there.

The little left-hand flake on the lip of the roof helps a little, but you're better off throwing for the roof as soon as you have even a marginal grip on it.

It might be possible that being too tall makes pulling over the roof more difficult. After you get both hands on the rail, you'd have to scrunch up pretty good to put your feet on if you were tall.

By NickinCO
From: colorado
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

1 move wonder. 11-/10+ I/m 6'1", it's not a bad reach, it's just committing. The jug is huge.

By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
Apr 21, 2013

I'm 5'11" +0 ape, and I can do the move statically. I'll decline to grade, but this is worlds easier than Walking with a Ghost at 11b.

By Matt Powers
Jun 23, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun move, not as height-dependent as some would suggest. Just drop your knee. I'm 5'9 and can almost do it statically. The move felt like a soft 11a, the rest of the climb is maybe 10a.

By JonnyGreenlee
From: Evergreen, CO
Sep 26, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

With a 6' 6 wingspan it didn't feel too hard, but I think 11- is probably appropriate for the less lanky people in the world.

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jun 18, 2014

In October 2013, Dale Haas and I replaced the hardware at the anchor with SS quicklinks and SS rings. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA)(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.

By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jun 26, 2014

Fun, gutsy, one-move 11- wonder.

SPOILER ALERT! Ape arms help; if you got 'em, use 'em. All that liberally-chalked, intermediate bullshit is best left untouched. Grabbeth thy mighty underclings, lock that core down, and windmill your right hand up--all tha way up--for glory. Match, and indeed, cut loose. (Freeing the feet comes naturally. It worked well for me long before having read this description.)

A word about the bolting, though. I call this one "gutsy" not because the falls would in any way be dramatic, but because the first roof bolt puts you in a bad way for rope burn. Far better would be to have put it high and right, out of the way. As is, I think your best bet for success is to gain the hero edge first with your right hand, z-clip left, then unclip that first roof bolt and THEN cut loose and continue. (All that may sound cryptic, but it'll all make sense once you're there. JUST REMEMBER TO SKIP ALL THAT INTERMEDIATE BULLSHIT...if'n' you're long enough....)