From the parking lot, follow the trail in. Mysterious Redhead is the first bolted line on the right. Total approach time is about a minute. A couple huecos down low to help you get started and then thins out as you get higher. A fun climb.
The photos are not of Mysterious Redhead. They are of a route on the right that was bolted after the bolting ban was established (by the BLM) in Penitente Canyon.
Having been on the first ascent I think I know were the route is. The route starts left of the route in the photo and climbs up the face staying left of the rounded arete. Bob.
Is the actual climb the one that starts at the same place as the climb pictured and splits off left, or is it the next climb over that goes up the scoop on the left side of the face?
Mike, my terse statements towards the route in question have to do with the fact that the route was established during the BLM bolting ban in the canyon. To me this type of behavior should not encouraged or the routes that are established be "hype" in any way. Bob.
The old guide book made Bob's description unambiguous since MR was the only line installed at the time. It's hard to imagine how the mix up occurred. Mysterious Redhead is the better line anyway being more continuous with tricky, and small, crimps throughout.
I looked at this rock this weekend and there seems to be three lines. The right-most (the one being climbed in the picture), I had assumed was Mysterious RedHead. The middle one (I believe it shares Mysterious Redhead's anchors), I thought was a 12a, and then there was one a bit further left that I thought was an 11d. I'm still confused, could someone explain which route is which and their ratings... Bob makes it sound as if the middle route (12a) is Mysterious Redhead. In any case, I really appreciate Bob's work in this canyon and especially his ethics!
AC, thanks for your positive feedback and I will try and anwser your questions. A bolting-ban was imposed by the BLM (with local climbers encouragement) in Penitente Canyon sometime around 1992. The right hand route that goes up the rounded arete was put up during the ban. I did not put the route in the guidebook to avoid any credence to this type of behavior. M-R starts just left of the arete in a scoop. It then angle right and climbs the steep face up to a set of chains. It is a good route on thin holds. A short classic! The name came about from us (Mark Milligan and I) when we lost one of redhead bolt. We drop the bolt and saw where it landed and then it was gone. We could only surmise that one of our dogs ate the bolt. I hope this anwsers your questions? Take care, Bob
Climbed this route again on 9/4/2004. It is the second line of bolts from the right, but note that there are only THREE bolts on this route plus the anchor as opposed to the four bolts listed in the new guidebook. The topo in the old guidebook shows four bolts as well, but the second from the ground in that topo is missing. Three bolts protects the difficulties quite well, though you don't want to biff it on the second clip...
By Chris Miller Administrator Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.11a
Fun little climb - a good intro to the pleasures of Penitente.
The route in the picture is not MR as stated by BD, BD did not put it in 'his' guide book because he did not put it up. It was put in before the bolting ban, which was initiated by BD because, and he also chopped another route that went up the slab/face to the right of the crack, just to left of the arch. The route is 4 bolts to a short chain anchor. I had named it Dirty Little Girl at 10c back in 4/92 but since then a few holds have broken off and it is a little harder in my opinion. If BD feels that way, maybe he should not include other routes that have been put in since the ban, or maybe he should have helped with the maintenance of routes in the canyon after they were installed. I used to climb with BD but haven't for years, we put up several routes together in the canyon, and he even gave me credit for some. Have fun climbing, all.
Penitente - Entrance Area
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