Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Christian Griffith, 1990
Page Views: 3,683 total · 22/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on May 15, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

About 50 yards into the canyon, this route is just around the corner from the popular route "Whipping Post". Look for an astonishingly blank swath split by a thin crack...that is "Sitting In Limbo", "Cassandra" is just to the right.

This route is a welcome change from many of the hard routes in the canyon, in that there are actually holds! Many of the hard routes in Penitente require straight down pulling on microscopic shadows, but this route has holds that don't go straight down, and the first 30 feet or so are actually overhanging.

Boulder up the overhanging section to a no hands rest before a final slab crux that keeps you honest.

There has been some funny business on this route. Some of the pockets are not in there "natural" state. I think the pockets themselves are original, but they probably were "comfortized", or "aggressively cleaned".

Nevertheless, it is a beautiful line that has fun and interesting moves.

Protection

7 bolts.

Photos

Nathan Welton
Estes Park, CO
  5.13a
Nathan Welton   Estes Park, CO
  5.13a
Very cool route, though the moves feel way more difficult than those on Virgin No More just up canyon. I'd say this is a solid grade harder, despite the business being much shorter. Definitely not as classic. Aug 29, 2011
William Mondragon  
  5.13a
Chipped as F@&k. May 15, 2012