Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Alex Colville
Page Views: 3,274 total · 19/month
Shared By: Christa Cline on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


95 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

This is a good route up a slab split by a crack. Go up the slab to the left of the crack to the first bolt. Step right at the bolt or slightly above and straight up to anchors up top.

Eds. Per Nick Esker: a little history: Alex Colville explained that when he first climbed this route he considered naming it [something] Ocho (because he thought it was 5.8). On his third time up the route, he fell on the top part of the climb and decided " eh... maybe it's nueve" 5.9).

Location

This route is located in the Entrance area, to the right of Captain America.

Protection

5 (4?) bolts, bolted anchor.

Photos

Slabby and thin from bottom to top, very challenging for the grade, and a great mental warm-up. Jun 5, 2005
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
A good lead climb for someone looking for technical yet beginner lead climbing. Balance is key. Aug 7, 2006
courtney.vogt
Denver, Colorado
 
courtney.vogt   Denver, Colorado
 
I agree with Amato, challenging for the grade. Great friction at the top. Sep 18, 2006
Casey Lems
Lakewood, CO
 
Casey Lems   Lakewood, CO
 
I agree with the comments about challenging for the grade. Definitely the hardest of the 8s we did. May 15, 2009
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
 
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
 
Probably closer to 5.9 slab but one can always bail to the right into a crack if the harder section at the top gets too scary. More like a 5.7 finish this way. Jun 14, 2009
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
  5.8
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
  5.8
This climb only has 4 bolts w/ a 2 bolt anchor. Aug 30, 2011
Hiro Protagonist
Colorado
  5.9
Hiro Protagonist   Colorado
  5.9
Faith in your rubber is required. I would not put a new leader on it, nor a leader w/o slab experience. Although I guess this depends what you think of falling on slab. Sep 30, 2013
Hansen Wendlandt
  5.10b R
Hansen Wendlandt  
  5.10b R
Way awkward second clip, with real deck potential, with obnoxious consistent slab the rest of the way -- do not send a beginning leader on this, until they are comfortable in the mid-low 10s. Sep 30, 2015
Ben D.
Colorado
  5.8+
Ben D.   Colorado
  5.8+
Definitely a bit stiff for the grade. If you stay directly on the bolt line, the upper half is 5.9, and, yes, definitely not a good route for new leaders looking to build confidence. If you climb 1-2' left of the bolt line, might even go at 10a for a move or two. Fun slab climbing though. Trust your feet! Oct 30, 2015
Nick Esker
Golden
Nick Esker   Golden
Was lucky enough to run into Alex Colville at the base of this route. He explained that when he first climbed this route he considered naming it [something] Ocho (because he thought it was 5.8). On his third time up the route, he fell on the top part of the climb and decided " eh... maybe it's nueve" 5.9). It was Alex's 84th birthday, and I believe he climbed Mr. Breeze or Mr. Wind next door while I was on this route. What a badass! Jul 17, 2016