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Routes in Penitente - Entrance Area

Abrazos y Chingazos S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alien In My Underpants S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Apocketlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Art of Suffering T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
BBC? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Boltergeist S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bucket Slave T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Camino De La Sonia T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Captain America S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cassandra S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Color Blind S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of Devotion S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Colors Of Emotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Dive Right In S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dos Hombres S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drill Seeker S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dynosaur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forbidden Fruits S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
French Lesson S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glutton for Punishment S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hand Jam Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hareless T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Illegal Alien S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Cross S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Laura T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loony Toons S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lovesnake S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mark's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
May-B-Nueve S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission in the Rain S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mission in the Snow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Morning Glory S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mr. Breeze S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Mr. Wind S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mysterious Redhead S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nature Of The Beast, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
No Regret S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
OPS S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Persephone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prick Pocket S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Que Pasa S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Queso Cabeza S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Quetzalcoatl Comes Through S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rocket Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sangrador, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Serpent, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sitting in Limbo S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Stemoroids S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tangerine Dream T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That's the Way S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Err Is Human T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist of Fate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist of Feet S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Wages of Sin T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
What The Hey S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
When the Whip Comes Down S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Whipping Post S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yah-Ta-Hei S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Alex Colville
Page Views: 3,159 total · 19/month
Shared By: Christa Cline on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a good route up a slab split by a crack. Go up the slab to the left of the crack to the first bolt. Step right at the bolt or slightly above and straight up to anchors up top.

Eds. Per Nick Esker: a little history: Alex Colville explained that when he first climbed this route he considered naming it [something] Ocho (because he thought it was 5.8). On his third time up the route, he fell on the top part of the climb and decided " eh... maybe it's nueve" 5.9).

Location

This route is located in the Entrance area, to the right of Captain America.

Protection

5 (4?) bolts, bolted anchor.

Photos

Slabby and thin from bottom to top, very challenging for the grade, and a great mental warm-up. Jun 5, 2005
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
A good lead climb for someone looking for technical yet beginner lead climbing. Balance is key. Aug 7, 2006
courtney.vogt
Denver, Colorado
 
courtney.vogt   Denver, Colorado
 
I agree with Amato, challenging for the grade. Great friction at the top. Sep 18, 2006
Casey Lems
Lakewood, CO
 
Casey Lems   Lakewood, CO
 
I agree with the comments about challenging for the grade. Definitely the hardest of the 8s we did. May 15, 2009
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
 
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
 
Probably closer to 5.9 slab but one can always bail to the right into a crack if the harder section at the top gets too scary. More like a 5.7 finish this way. Jun 14, 2009
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
  5.8
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
  5.8
This climb only has 4 bolts w/ a 2 bolt anchor. Aug 30, 2011
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
  5.9
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
  5.9
Faith in your rubber is required. I would not put a new leader on it, nor a leader w/o slab experience. Although I guess this depends what you think of falling on slab. Sep 30, 2013
Hansen Wendlandt
  5.10b R
Hansen Wendlandt  
  5.10b R
Way awkward second clip, with real deck potential, with obnoxious consistent slab the rest of the way -- do not send a beginning leader on this, until they are comfortable in the mid-low 10s. Sep 30, 2015
Ben D.
Colorado
  5.8+
Ben D.   Colorado
  5.8+
Definitely a bit stiff for the grade. If you stay directly on the bolt line, the upper half is 5.9, and, yes, definitely not a good route for new leaders looking to build confidence. If you climb 1-2' left of the bolt line, might even go at 10a for a move or two. Fun slab climbing though. Trust your feet! Oct 30, 2015
Nick Esker
Golden
Nick Esker   Golden
Was lucky enough to run into Alex Colville at the base of this route. He explained that when he first climbed this route he considered naming it [something] Ocho (because he thought it was 5.8). On his third time up the route, he fell on the top part of the climb and decided " eh... maybe it's nueve" 5.9). It was Alex's 84th birthday, and I believe he climbed Mr. Breeze or Mr. Wind next door while I was on this route. What a badass! Jul 17, 2016

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