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Routes in Penitente - Entrance Area

Abrazos y Chingazos S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alien In My Underpants S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Apocketlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Art of Suffering T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
BBC? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Boltergeist S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bucket Slave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Camino De La Sonia T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Captain America S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cassandra S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Color Blind S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of Devotion S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Colors Of Emotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Dive Right In S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dos Hombres S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drill Seeker S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dynosaur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forbidden Fruits S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
French Lesson S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glutton for Punishment S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hand Jam Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hareless T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Illegal Alien S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Cross S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Laura T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loony Toons S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lovesnake S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mark's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
May-B-Nueve S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission in the Rain S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mission in the Snow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Morning Glory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Breeze S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Mr. Wind S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mysterious Redhead S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nature Of The Beast, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
No Regret S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
OPS S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Persephone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prick Pocket S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Que Pasa S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Queso Cabeza S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Quetzalcoatl Comes Through S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rocket Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sangrador, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Serpent, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sitting in Limbo S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Stemoroids S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tangerine Dream T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That's the Way S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Err Is Human T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist of Fate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist of Feet S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wages of Sin T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
What The Hey S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
When the Whip Comes Down S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whipping Post S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yah-Ta-Hei S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, Leslie Coon, 5/88
Page Views: 1,377 total, 7/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 29, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 Details

Description

Twenty feet left of Persephone is a nice, little, sandy spot with several of the most moderate lines in the canyon, and with bolted 5.7, and 5.8 to be had, these routes are oftentimes the most crowded routes at Penitente.

Loony Tunes is the furthest right of the bunch and involves a bit of bolt protected crack climbing that leads up to some nice, clean crimping typical of the just under-vertical rock here.

Now, since my own belay-spot in Hell has been solidly reserved in advance, I can pose the question "How did Kevin come up with this route name?" Was it, perhaps, that you could coax the word "laugh" out of his own name, was it derived from blots near a crack, or was it perchance a personal moment somehow related to the first ascent? Since I don't know Kevin, I may never learn the answer to this puzzle, perhaps someone else knows.... (Did I just get a Gold Star?)

Protection

Half a dozen (7?) draws and a rope.

Photos

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the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
I do not recall any 'bolt protected crack climbing' on this. There is a seam going to the first bolt, but I doubt you could get decent pro in. It does open into decent but shallow pods right before bolt 3, with a good horizontal, & I suppose that you could get some creative but okay pro there. This is a good route. 7 bolts. Oct 17, 2016
Allen Law
Del Norte, CO
  5.11a
Allen Law   Del Norte, CO
  5.11a
Am I only person who thinks this is the hardest of the 3!? Upper slab moves are much harder on Persephone and Alien, but pulling the bulge on this one takes some effort. Jul 20, 2016
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.10b/c
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.10b/c
EDIT. After scratching my head over this route location compared to the route description Im going to say it is a little vague but this is the climb IMMEDIATELY left of Persephone. It's so close you could almost start on one and switch to the other. After the first few bolts, they diverge significantly. It is a decent line, albeit with widely spaced welded coldshuts and/or bolts with a committing move or two between them. Probably a tad easier and less sustained than Persephone? Apr 24, 2012
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
I wouldn't be so quick to assume that the FA put the bolts near the crack on this route. Bolts have been added on many a Penitente route, and it seems more so lately, especially on easier routes requiring gear.

Anyone know what the route is between this one and Persephone? The route that starts with a little stemming, then climbs up the left side of the tower that Persephone is on? Dec 13, 2005
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
I really liked this climb. The top half is totally awesome thin climbing. This one tests year feet.The start is a whole different style requiring more strength. This one will test the leaders ability to step up on thin feet and crimpers and commit. Should be two stars. Jul 3, 2003
JVonD
Longmont, CO
JVonD   Longmont, CO
Great moves through the crack. If you can't top it out to rappel down, you'll rip your rope trying to lower. It totally sucks. Its really hard up top so the whole time your up there trying to make the moves, your stressing your rope big time. Kind of a bummer cause man its good right off the ground. Apr 9, 2003