Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark Milligan, Glenn Schuler & Rick Westbay, 5/88
Page Views: 300 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jared Brin on Jul 22, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

About 100 feet past Colors of Emotion, the trail passes close to an obvious orange wall with a large, black, water streak. This climb is the rightmost route on the wall. It has a bouldering start up a small overhang to two bolts on slab, then easy runout climbing to upper three bolts and more fun face climbing.

Protection

5 bolts + anchors.

Photos

This is a good intro to this area of the canyon. Don't let the gap in bolts scare you away...the climbing is easier where the bolts are not -- the route is fun, high quality, and still sharp because everyone skips it for Whipping Post, Forbidden Fruit, etc. -JMM May 7, 2003
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
I was surprised to see this listed as 2.5 stars. This is one of my new favorites at Penitente. Excellent movement and just as good as its neighbors. My only beef is the runout on the easier ground. You're not going to fall, but if a foot slipped or something random happens you'd deck from 30ft.... Kinda silly at a sport venue. Regardless, this is a great climb. Jun 28, 2010
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
Monty's comments are spot on. Things have changed quite a bit since we first did the route. All I can do is give some old guy perspective on this thing - When we put this up we didn't know what a "sport venue" was. Seems comical now, but Whipping Post had 2 bolts at the time. (There is a funny story behind that.) We thought No Regret was over-bolted compared to its neighbor.

Anyhow, if you can make the first clip boulder problem - the rest of the route will be a non-issue. Jul 16, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Thanks for the "old guy perspective", Glenn. Penitente must of been an amazing place to develop. I'd love to hear the story of Whipping Post. Jul 17, 2010