Type: Sport
FA: D'Antonio, Ranck, 1992
Page Views: 585 total · 3/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 29, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

Thirty ft. right of Persephone and around the corner is a sweeping line that approaches dead vertical near the half way point. Clean stone with excellent edge and shallow pockets can be found initially, and this is followed by more superb edge climbing up to a horrizontal seam. Crimp to the anchors and the technical crux, but get some good chill below the seam since it will be the last rest. The seam provides very little by way of rest, and the crux is still above. Good stone, excellent pro, and technical crimping kick up another very worthy line in this sector.

Protection

Half a dozen draws and a rope.

Photos

This is a good route!!! The crux in my opinion is clipping the last bolt, including getting to the right hand crimp used to clip it. Another overlooked route in Penitente means really gritty rock - so don't expect to grease off the holds. I overlooked this route for 10 years until last weekend. Very fun. -JMM May 7, 2003