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Routes in Penitente - Entrance Area

Abrazos y Chingazos S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alien In My Underpants S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Apocketlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Art of Suffering T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
BBC? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Boltergeist S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bucket Slave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Camino De La Sonia T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Captain America S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cassandra S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Color Blind S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of Devotion S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Colors Of Emotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Dive Right In S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dos Hombres S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drill Seeker S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dynosaur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forbidden Fruits S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
French Lesson S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glutton for Punishment S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hand Jam Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hareless T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Illegal Alien S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Cross S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Laura T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loony Toons S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lovesnake S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mark's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
May-B-Nueve S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission in the Rain S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mission in the Snow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Morning Glory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Breeze S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Mr. Wind S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mysterious Redhead S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nature Of The Beast, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
No Regret S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
OPS S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Persephone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prick Pocket S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Que Pasa S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Queso Cabeza S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Quetzalcoatl Comes Through S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rocket Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sangrador, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Serpent, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sitting in Limbo S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Stemoroids S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tangerine Dream T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That's the Way S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Err Is Human T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist of Fate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist of Feet S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wages of Sin T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
What The Hey S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
When the Whip Comes Down S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whipping Post S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yah-Ta-Hei S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, 5/88
Page Views: 1,287 total, 10/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 Details

Description

What a great name! I wouldn't say I did any "soaring", but there definitely was some dynoing. A powerful and desperate boulder problem getting to the second bolt defines this route. Vastly easier and enjoyable jug hauling gets you to the top from there. The guidebook warns about blowing the second clip, but the clip can be made from huge jugs. I think you could make the argument that most routes anywhere would put you in a bad spot if you blew the second clip!

Location

This is two routes left of Bucket Slave.

Protection

Bolts, stick clip.

Photos

Kevin McLaughlin
Colorado Springs
Kevin McLaughlin   Colorado Springs
I would agree with Mike Anderson in his description. Almost any Sport route has potential for decking if you blow a low clip. That being said ... the clips are made from the best spots available as I recall. Sometimes climbing is actually scary and hard. Do your best not to fall off. Enjoy. Sep 14, 2013
Nathan Welton
Estes Park, CO
  5.12b
Nathan Welton   Estes Park, CO
  5.12b
Man... I can't remember enough of it to make a suggestion, but if I recall, I would have liked to have seen the second and third clips moved down. I wasn't too bummed about the upper section as the climbing is all there and the fall isn't dangerous. Jun 2, 2013
butlerbt
Boulder, CO
 
butlerbt   Boulder, CO
 
Nathan, what do you suggest for a correction?

As I remember it, there isn't much of an opportunity to clip a bolt between the current 1st and 2nd. Sure this creates a bit of a hazard, but even if there was a supplementary bolt, I'd probably skip it since it would be mid-crux, and as for getting to the 3rd? It's 4th class relative to what you just climbed through... don't fall off the giant buckets.

On the other hand, I wouldn't be totally opposed to another bolt in the upper portion past the bulge. I have done it in its current state, but it is a little scary. May 27, 2013
Mike Lane
Centennial, CO
Mike Lane   Centennial, CO
Keep an eye out for any more anchor-fixing events down there and be sure to put that idea forward then too. Dec 2, 2012
Nathan Welton
Estes Park, CO
  5.12b
Nathan Welton   Estes Park, CO
  5.12b
This should get retrobolted. Deck if you blow the first, deck if you blow the second, deck if you blow the third. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? Dec 2, 2012
AndyMac
Center, CO
AndyMac   Center, CO
Does this route start from the block out left? Is it Dyno-soar? Apr 21, 2011