Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mac Ruiz, 11/90
Page Views: 3,859 total · 22/month
Shared By: shad O'Neel on Sep 8, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


98 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

This is another good warmup in the easy alcove area of slabs on the right as you walk in (underneath and to the right of Captain America). It may not be as interesting as its 5.7 neighbor to the right, but it is worthy nonetheless. There are interesting slab moves that steepen at the top. The direct start is harder than 5.8. Expect a mob scene of families clambering away on busy weekends, but it is worth a visit when no one is around.

Protection

6 bolts, plus anchors.

Photos

Dylan Kuhn
Reno, NV
 
Dylan Kuhn   Reno, NV
 
I think the nice 5.7 is Mr. Wind, to the left of this route.... Apr 8, 2007
Armin climber
Westminster, CO
  5.10-
Armin climber   Westminster, CO
  5.10-
Direct start felt like 1 move of 10. Jul 3, 2007
David Bayendor
Denver, CO
 
David Bayendor   Denver, CO
 
A very hard direct start. If you make the start slightly right it is a great friction climb as you move onto the main line. Past the ledge and continuing up the excellent finger crack. Six bolts, solid 5.8.

To clarify, this route is right of Mr. Wind, so the previous poster is correct. While I was there four of us did this and all felt it to be easier than Mr. Wind (5.7).

Once I led this and set it up as a top rope, I had my girlfriend work the friction start on the left side to get her used to that kind of foot work. May 30, 2009
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
  5.7
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
  5.7
The direct start, I would say is 5.8. It's just strenuous movements on small holds. The right side of this is definitely 5.7. Aug 30, 2011
Mike Smyth
Spartanburg, SC
Mike Smyth   Spartanburg, SC
New hangers and anchors as of 2 weeks ago. There is a block near the top, a bit right and below the anchor, that is coming a bit loose. Be careful of it. May 29, 2012
ErikaNW
Golden, CO
ErikaNW   Golden, CO
The mussy hooks at the anchor were missing their gates (open hooks) and were replaced with rap rings (part of the 2014 re-bolting project weekend). May 26, 2014