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Routes in Penitente - Entrance Area

Abrazos y Chingazos S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alien In My Underpants S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Apocketlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Art of Suffering T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
BBC? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Boltergeist S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bucket Slave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Camino De La Sonia T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Captain America S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cassandra S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Color Blind S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of Devotion S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Colors Of Emotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Dive Right In S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dos Hombres S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drill Seeker S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dynosaur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forbidden Fruits S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
French Lesson S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glutton for Punishment S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hand Jam Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hareless T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Illegal Alien S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Cross S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Laura T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loony Toons S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lovesnake S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mark's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
May-B-Nueve S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission in the Rain S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mission in the Snow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Morning Glory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Breeze S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Mr. Wind S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mysterious Redhead S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nature Of The Beast, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
No Regret S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
OPS S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Persephone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prick Pocket S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Que Pasa S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Queso Cabeza S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Quetzalcoatl Comes Through S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rocket Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sangrador, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Serpent, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sitting in Limbo S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Stemoroids S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tangerine Dream T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That's the Way S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Err Is Human T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist of Fate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist of Feet S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wages of Sin T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
What The Hey S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
When the Whip Comes Down S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whipping Post S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yah-Ta-Hei S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mac Ruiz 11/90
Page Views: 3,027 total, 23/month
Shared By: Dylan Kuhn on Apr 8, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 Details

Description

The crux is at the first clip with nice sustained friction after that.

Location

This is right of Mr. Breeze, left of The Serpent.

Protection

6 bolts to cold shuts.

Photos

Terminal Rookie
Salida, Colorado
Terminal Rookie   Salida, Colorado
PSA: the 4th bolt (or the 3rd? I can't remember) is only finger tight right now and needs tightening. I noticed it because the hanger is pointing straight down. I forgot my wrench or I would have done it. Jun 22, 2017
mmk
Golden, CO
mmk   Golden, CO
The Mussy hooks at the anchors are missing gates. Be prepared to rap through the quick links when cleaning for safety. Mar 31, 2017
mlauwers
  5.8
mlauwers  
  5.8
I believe the older, darker photos under this route are actually pics of The Serpent. It seems there was some confusion on the notes on The Serpent as well, but from left to right it goes: Mr. Breeze at 5.2, Mr. Wind at 5.7, and The Serpent at 5.8. There's a photo of all three routes up above under this route. Jun 11, 2013
Mike Smyth
Spartanburg, SC
Mike Smyth   Spartanburg, SC
New anchors and hangers as of 2 weeks ago. May 29, 2012
Arthur Sullivan
Albuquerque,NM
  5.8-
Arthur Sullivan   Albuquerque,NM
  5.8-
Like many of the moderates at Penitente the guide book grade assumes you levitate over the initial moves. Tough climb for a 5.7 unless you are very comfortable on slab. Anchors are wearing thin at the top. Jun 13, 2009
David Bayendor
Denver, CO
 
David Bayendor   Denver, CO
 
The crux seems to be just getting off the ground with a stem start.

All of the routes in this area favor those with good footwork for friction/slabs. This was a great lesson for me, a more traditional crack climber. May 30, 2009