Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Martin Joisten, 1990
Page Views: 590 total · 3/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Dec 31, 2004 with updates from Martin Joisten
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

This is located immediately left of the popular "Forbidden Fruit".

This route might be a bit contrived. It starts out steep on some nice jugs, then quickly turns into a steep slab. I felt compelled to avoid using the crack on the right ("Apocketlips") which made for a couple hard slab moves. My friends used the crack, and it probably makes sense to do so. The crux comes about mid-height with some small pockets on great rock.

Being a nice route next to two of the canyon's most popular, I don't see why this route doesn't get more traffic.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

NEH
  5.12-
NEH  
  5.12-
I agree this one feels a little contrived, avoiding the crack makes this one harder than the adjacent 12a Forbidden Fruit. Overall, I thought this was a bitchy tweaky little route not really worth the effort. If you are here for the weekend there are plenty of other better routes to do. May 16, 2011
Aeon Aki

  5.11+
Aeon Aki    
  5.11+
Use the crack! This is rock climbing, not the gym. Using it does not avoid the crux, and there are some great jams in there. Well worth it if you already did Forbidden Fruit. Oct 15, 2012