Type: Sport
FA: Jay Fredinburg
Page Views: 6,208 total · 30/month
Shared By: Rog on Nov 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


178 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

After following the main trail, there is an obvious branch to a side canyon on the right. Immediately on the right is a 'hueco ridden' buttress. This is Captain America. Do a very short 3rd class scramble up to a belay ledge. Note there is a very helpful hold (perhaps glued?? Bob - history??) to aid in this ascent.

The first clip is easy - step up, clip, step down, and then readdress the problem straight on. Note that peeling while clipping bolt 2 is not good. It is not a hard move, but stupid people like myself will hurt their ankle. Bob D's guidebook says not to lower or TR off the anchors - we did not see this as an issue...???

Protection

3 bolts & cold shuts.
Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
 
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
 
Great route but way too short for 3 stars. Mar 15, 2004
Pneumoped
  5.10a
Pneumoped  
  5.10a
I led this yesterday (9/6/2004). A nice climb if only it was a bit longer. Note: about 200 yards from the parking area on the main trail we ran into a nice fat beefy rattlesnake. Just beware when approaching the climbs in this area as it is a long way to the hospital.

With respect to the top anchor comments on Captain America here is what I observed. The existing anchors consist of three bolts. As I recall the two on the left were rap anchors and the one on the right had a clip hanger on it. The anchor in the middle had a beefy chain hanging from it. One of the bolts was loose and could use tightening.

Further, below the fixed anchors were two empty bolt holes and a third bolt that was chopped and left in the hole. Perhaps those bolt holes and/or the chopped bolt made up the original anchor that was less inspiring.

Cheers,Chris Sep 7, 2004
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
  5.10b
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
  5.10b
Fun climb but felt stiff for 10a. Did the flake on the left at the first bolt break off recently? (looks like there migth be a scar). I did not see anything weird about the initial slab.... May 29, 2007
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10a
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10a
Fun climbing--wish it was longer though! Jul 2, 2007
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.10c PG13
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.10c PG13
I've never really liked this one. The crux is definitely more strenuous than 10a as compared to other 10s in the canyon - small feet with slopey pockets or awkward sidepulls on overhanging rock. Also, the second bolt is pretty high given the ledge below. The rest of the route has some fun huecos though. May 26, 2009
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Good route but getting past that first bolt is tricky and pumpy. Felt harder than 5.10a. After that good climbing up to the anchor. Jun 14, 2009
Brandon80
Denver, Co
Brandon80   Denver, Co
Great route. However, I don't know if the rating is accurate. The crux is up to the first bolt and just past. After that the route drops to maybe 5.8 or so. Still, it's a really fun climb. Sep 19, 2010
NEH
  5.10-
NEH  
  5.10-
One hard move (and not really very fun move) to 5.7/5.8 climbing. I'm not sure why this is so popular. The routes on the Hueco Wall are similar but way better. May 16, 2011
Levi Wilner
Alamosa, CO
  5.10b R
Levi Wilner   Alamosa, CO
  5.10b R
Agree with NEH. Why is this so popular? Why is the first bolt so far left? 1 move to 5.8 climbing, not a fan. Jun 15, 2012
Hansen Wendlandt
  5.10a R
Hansen Wendlandt  
  5.10a R
The first move is all about the sequence, only a 10a because it's sneaky but certainly not as hard as it's made out to be. But, no, no falling before the second. Sep 30, 2015