Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 910 total · 5/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on May 13, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

I haven't RP'd this thing as of this time, but it seems like every time I go to Penitente, I'm seduced by this tempting boulder problem. This route is singularly unique for the area. It always seems like a good route to try when my fingertips have been schralped (to borrow a phrase).

Located about halfway down the trail to the virgin painting, you can't miss this sharply overhanging roof with two distinct pockets in it. Stick clip the first bolt, then reach for the first big pocket, dyno to the positive two finger...then start the crux...mantling over the lip.

Make sure your tendons are ready for this thing, as the dyno to the two finger could seriously injur you.

I placed a #0 TCU at the very start to keep the rope out of my way. This thing really needs another bolt down low to serve that purpose.

Protection

5 bolts or so, two cold shuts at the top.

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Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
5.12c
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
5.12c
Maybe I was just really tired at the end of a long climbing day, but the start of this route was super powerful, tweaky and hard for me! Still, looking forward to coming back and trying this again when I'm fresh. May 27, 2014
rojasx53
  5.12d
rojasx53  
  5.12d
This is a top notch boulder problem anywhere! Coolest two pocket moves I've done. I didn't need to dyno to the 2nd pocket - technique, and core power will do the trick (I'm 5'8"). However, pulling around the bulge is definitely the real crux.... Make sure your belayer is tucked away in the corner and ready for a good whip even after the climber has pulled around the lip.

Also, a nut for keeping the rope out of the way may be more appropriate than a cam! Apr 1, 2019