Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,655 total · 7/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on May 13, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

I haven't RP'd this thing as of this time, but it seems like every time I go to Penitente, I'm seduced by this tempting boulder problem. This route is singularly unique for the area. It always seems like a good route to try when my fingertips have been schralped (to borrow a phrase).

Located about halfway down the trail to the virgin painting, you can't miss this sharply overhanging roof with two distinct pockets in it. Stick clip the first bolt, then reach for the first big pocket, dyno to the positive two finger...then start the crux...mantling over the lip.

Make sure your tendons are ready for this thing, as the dyno to the two finger could seriously injur you.

I placed a #0 TCU at the very start to keep the rope out of my way. This thing really needs another bolt down low to serve that purpose.

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts or so, two cold shuts at the top.

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