Castor 

The second pitch is quite nice. Follow right facing ramp till it ends and continue up on good holds to reach a thin crack to a small roof. Passing the small roof is 5.9-, and there are cold shuts at the top to descend.

Also, combination of Castor (or Pollux) with Orange Aid makes for a cool 5.10 "diretissima" of the East Face.

The real crux is placing the first piece of gear. This climb is really a 5.8 ontop of a v2 boulder problem. The main description above is wrong after the large ledge. Jeremy’s comments are more correct.

Hey pretty nice crack. Little thuggish, i.e. some wide jamming.

Kinda like a jtree route in that the start doesn't quite count in the rating. The rest is 10a casual though.

You can get 2 good pieces protecting the start while standing on the ground...

Beautiful line. Wouldn't say it's 5.8 after the 10a section though. Some 8, some 9. Still need to be focused. Take the pitch up to the shuts on the end of Conn's East P1. The 2nd pitch (3rd by the book's standards) is great. Pro is all there. After the small overhang you'll pull up to a good stance and have two options. Crack on the left or a shallow left facing corner/flake on the right. Both lead to a ledge with the cold shuts. Going left, the top move to get to the shuts gets your attention (9ish). You can also pop out onto the summit with a couple more moves.