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Upper Broadway
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Castor 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 4,084
Submitted By: Brian Adzima on Oct 3, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Castor. October '07.

Description 

According to the guide book the crux is in the first 15 feet. That being said the next 30 feet or so is not easy either.

The routes goes up a nice finger/hand crack for about 45 feet. After the large ledge the route contiunes up a right facing corner (5.8?) finishing on the Conn's East Ledge (Below Alcoa Presents).


Location 

Castor is left of the twin finger/hand crack systems located beside a large boulder.


Protection 

Handsize and smaller gear. Anchors at the top.



Photos of Castor Slideshow Add Photo
Hutch on Castor, Seneca Rocks, WV.
Hutch on Castor, Seneca Rocks, WV.
Crux opening moves on Castor
Crux opening moves on Castor
Hutch on Castor, Seneca Rocks, WV.
Hutch on Castor, Seneca Rocks, WV.
Castor and Pollux.  Castor is on the left <br />be sure to enlarge this high detailed image for visual beta.
BETA PHOTO: Castor and Pollux. Castor is on the left
be sure ...
Nick climbing castor.
Nick climbing castor.
Climber on Castor, Pollux on the right.
Climber on Castor, Pollux on the right.
Comments on Castor Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 24, 2007

The second pitch is quite nice. Follow right facing ramp till it ends and continue up on good holds to reach a thin crack to a small roof. Passing the small roof is 5.9-, and there are cold shuts at the top to descend.

By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Oct 10, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Also, combination of Castor (or Pollux) with Orange Aid makes for a cool 5.10 "diretissima" of the East Face.

By dinglestyle
From: Catonsville, MD
Feb 20, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The real crux is placing the first piece of gear. This climb is really a 5.8 ontop of a v2 boulder problem. The main description above is wrong after the large ledge. Jeremy’s comments are more correct.

By Nate R
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Hey pretty nice crack. Little thuggish, i.e. some wide jamming.

Kinda like a jtree route in that the start doesn't quite count in the rating. The rest is 10a casual though.

You can get 2 good pieces protecting the start while standing on the ground...

By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Beautiful line. Wouldn't say it's 5.8 after the 10a section though. Some 8, some 9. Still need to be focused. Take the pitch up to the shuts on the end of Conn's East P1. The 2nd pitch (3rd by the book's standards) is great. Pro is all there. After the small overhang you'll pull up to a good stance and have two options. Crack on the left or a shallow left facing corner/flake on the right. Both lead to a ledge with the cold shuts. Going left, the top move to get to the shuts gets your attention (9ish). You can also pop out onto the summit with a couple more moves.