Another super-classic route in the Yellow Wall area. This begins just right of The Yellow Wall itself and shares a belay with Airy Aria.
P1 is a decent, well-protected solid 5.9 as its own pitch.
P1: Begin on the arete just right of the OW corner of Airy Aria, and climb a left-diagonaling finger crack to a nice belay ledge out left. Belay here at two bolts. 5.9, 60'.
P2: Climb up and right off of the belay through a wild system of roofs. There are frequent places to rest -- including a no-hands knee bar immediately below the crux. Reach up and clip a bolt, then pull a difficult move (11a -- but I thought it was harder) to a tenuous stance on tiny holds. There's a second bolt here but it's a really difficult clip and the bolt is total mank anyway -- you may consider skipping it. A few more desperate moves up and right will get you to a thank-God stance and #2 Camalot placement in a horizontal. Climb up more roofs (successively pumpier), to a final ass-kicking, cramped, hand traverse right to a belay stance. This feels almost as hard as the crux move, but shorter folks may be able to cruise it.
Standard Rack, two bolts, some pins, and a crucial #2 Camalot above the first crux.
It's 35m from the fixed anchor atop Pitch 2 to the ground. With care, it's possible to lower with a 70m rope; otherwise, walk back to the High Exposure rappel line.
The thing I remember most is falling off the final crux roof following Rich Gottlieb and shredding his new rope.
The first crux (on P2) was done on the FFA by traversing left then up and back right. Easier, but scary.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH Jan 30, 2008 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
After I eeked through the crux on pitch two, I was convinced that it was necessary to belay below the final roof (I may have read this in the guidebook or maybe I just made it up, I don't know). I would not recommend belaying here as the rock isn't that solid and the stance is less-than-comfortable. It would have been better to continue to the top of the cliff, as Josh's description suggests. The final roof, though intimidating, wasn't as hard as the lower crux. It was more awkward than hard.
I led the whole thing in one pitch, from the ground, with double ropes in 1986. I had enough slings to keep the rope drag manageable even on the final roof. Which kicked my ass like other super, scruncy Gunks classics (Swing Time, Pork Roaster, Arachnias). I whippped off the last overhang 2 or 3 times, with rope stretch and an expert, Mileski style Joey split finger, dynamic belay by Stokey Baker, the ride must have been 40 feet. But I could get back on above the lower crux and I'd just yo yo up for another go.
Did this back in '99 or '00 one cold October day. My feet cut out on the traverse under the final roof. Campused for a move or two and did a wild dyno to a jug. Yikes! I haven't dared a repeat, though I do fantasize of it.
Just did this route yesterday. A heads up to anyone trying the route, the bolts are extremely suspect. The first bolt is relatively new, however it's bent and not set it the hole well. I would't trust it to hold a big fall. The second bolt is a complete joke, don't bother even clipping it. It would't hold my cat on aid. The route in my opinion currently R.
It's been a little over a year - anyone know if the bolt status is the same? Pulled out? Replaced? Sounds like there is no reasonable gear options for a while if the previous poster indicates it as R climbing...
The bolt at the 1st crux is good enough to protect the moves. The hanger isn't bent, but it is a spinner. The route is spicy, but not because of the bolt's condition. If you blew the 1st crux, the fall would be short (provided you'd already clipped the bolt). I also think 11a is a sandbag as an onsight. I thought it was in the same league, but not quite as hard as the third pitch of Enduro Man.