Overhang Bypass 

I didn't like this route, and also found it to be very hard for the grade on P2. I guess everyone's tastes vary, but discontinuous mostly easy climbing with a few hard moves does not a classic make.

came off this climb smiling ear to ear...After P1 the belay is superb and actually had enough room for leader, belay and someone on the ground who wanted to join in to make it a 3 some. The start of P2 is sketchy, yet there is ample placement for gear, (espeacially aliens) Like it was said, the feet are scarce, but they are there. I used a 1 1/2 alien in the end of the traverse, before the bolt, and it placed like butter...enjoy!!!

Alan Bartlett's book description of the route has the climber exiting the flake roof to the right. This variation is 5.7 slab climbing, but is runout and uncomfortable. The exit to the left has much better pro.

Good moves and great position on this route. Climbing directly over the apex of the flake/roof is perhaps the best way as it offers some great stemming and a fun move over the lip of the roof. Perhaps a little harder when done this way, but certainly more memorable. Three, maybe three and a half stars out of five.

Another great route, 2 crux's, Yeah Yeah Yeah I know. I loved the left crack out of the trough on the 1st pitch, protect it with a tri-cam and a nut and GO. The traverse was fun and has a sweet spot for a cam 1/2 way across, Don't let the traverse mess with your mind, plug the gear and go, the hand holds are there, feet too. The top is cool too... E.T.A. 3 min, 23.41 sec from tent.

Fun climbing on P1, but the short P2 is where the fun is to be had. The bypass protected well with a #.75 and #1 cam. I was lucky enough to chit chat with Jim Bridwell after climbing this route - what a treat!

Did this with Tan Slacks today and do not think that it is a classic either. The first pitch was an easy solo to what is more of a relatively easy boulder problem. The amount of car traffic made it impossible to hear Tan (Yes I know that walkie talkies exist) the "looky Loos" with cameras in hands made for a distracting mess. All in all though it was not a great one. I did actually enjoy it however. But I am a "glutten for punishment". Would I do it again? Not worth it to me. So no! Too many other climbs that are better and away from the masses. But??? Opinions are just that and mine holds no more weight than others..........

I will have to disagree with Locker. I thought the route was fun and that pitch 1 had a thoughtful move over the first roof. P1 was easy to protect. P2, don't hang out. It's easier to keep moving on the good holds under the roof. Way too many people watching for my taste though.

I've done this route more times than I can remember. In the "old days" we always did the underpass. It adds a challenge to the first pitch that enhances the overall quality of the route. I give the route maximum stars because of its varied and interesting moves. If put up today, it would probably be rated 5.8. The traverse should be taken seriously; there've been quite a few broken bones here. The "gap" in the middle of the traverse poses a problem for shorter than average climbers. I choose not to stop and place a point midway; it's risky, but I believe keeping the momentum going is safer.

This is my most favorite low grade route in the park. I can't count the number of times I've climbed it! As with some of the other comments on the climb; it is good to just keep moving under the roof until the climbing eases, or else, it's a pump-fest not worth putting upon oneself.

A great route that's even better (maybe a little harder) if done straight up over the apex of the small downturned roof (visible in the attatched photo). A sling can be untied and threaded through a hole at the lip while stemming and provides good protection on this part. On the second pitch it's best to just go, as worrying about pro will only pump you out. Have some rope signals worked out ahead of time as it can be hard to hear on this route, particularly on the second pitch. Three, maybe three and a half stars out of five.

Climbed this guy last week. I thought this was a really fun climb. The crux's are very distinct, you'll know it when you get there. I sent up belay right under the roof. For the roof, its pretty protectable just depends on how much gusto you've got but the feet are pretty good and its much easier than it looks from the ground. I used a purple alien and a yellow friend to sew it up. All around a very good climb!

Great climb indeed. The exposure you find moving out from under the roof is nice. What did we find atop the rock, but a natural cistern full o' water.

Gee Woody, must have been unusual atmospheric conditions to get such a short one.

Touche'! Clever, Randy.

I have always avoided this route because it looked very intimidating. Finally climbed it last week and enjoyed it very much. It protects well, especially the crux moves.

I noticed that there are many opinions on the first pitch in this thread. The trouble with this is that there are numerous variations on the first pitch, especially the lower section. Go way left and make it a walk up, or choose the more challenging route and make it a 5.6 to 5.8.

The route is next to the road, so expect a non-aesthetic environment during tourist season. The anchor at the top is the same as the main rappel anchors, so think about building your own anchor on a busy day (decent crack system near the rappel anchors... you may want to extend, but not worries because you should have plenty of rope due to the short second pitch).

I have climbed this twice and find it fun, challenging, and 100% worthwhile. This is one of those routes you look up at and think "it would be awesome if I could climb that, " and then find its well within your reach.

Anyway, here are some things that I don't think have been mentioned that should be.

1. Take prussiks and make sure both people know how to use them. If the second falls on the traverse, they will likely be dangling and need to self rescue. If you lower the person down to retry after they have cleaned the gear, I believe there is a deck/nasty pendulum potential.
My 2nd popped off 1/2 way through the traverse and learned that self-rescue practice in the gym is totally different than the real situation. The paparazzi didn't do anything for the stress of the situation(but one of them kindly emailed us an amusing picture).

2. I think its best to place at least 2 pieces of gear on the traverse to protect the second(1/3 and 2/3 of the way through). If you only place in the middle, they will pendulum right for a ways. I found a .75 and 1 camalot place perfectly, as well.

3. Like mentioned, consider extending your belay way down with your rope. Otherwise, you won't be able to hear or see your second.

Just some thoughts. Nest time, I want to do the true overhang.

cheers

If you want to make things safer for your second on the traverse and you are comfortable at the grade, do the following....

1) Place pro at the beginning of the traverse
2) Don't place any pro across the traverse
3) Once past the final bolt you can reach down and unclip the bolt after you've past it. The stance to do this is very secure.
4) Now head up and create an anchor.
5) Flip the rope lookers-right and the rope will be directly over the middle of the traverse. You can even flip the rope along as your second moves through the traverse.