This is a fun, challenging route with a variety of climbing and quality rock. You will encounter laybacks, slab climbing, a few thin face moves, and some strenuous crack moves.
To locate the route, walk about 200' uphill from the start of Ewephoria. Here you will find a clearly defined staging area next to a 30' right facing corner. The first pitch starts on the crack to the right of the corner. Three bolts are visible along the crack.
Pitch 1 (5.10, 100'): Climb the crack, passing three bolts. At the end of the crack, make a strenuous reach (5.10) to a handhold on the right and move under a roof. Move up and left to a spot where you can pull the roof (5.9). Move left a few feet to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.7, 125'): Follow the bolts up the slab to an anchor under a roof.
Pitch 3 (5.10+, 170'): Pull the roof (5.10a/b) following bolts past two ledges. The crux lies just above the first ledge. Be cautious - a combination of rope stretch and lack of visibility for your belayer could easily lead to a tweaked ankle in this spot.
Pitch 4 (5.10, 140'): This is the best pitch of the climb. Head up and left following two bolts to a short gully which narrows to a handcrack. The handcrack moves are strenuous. At the top of the handcrack traverse right underneath a roof to a bolted anchor at a small stance.
Pitch 5 (5.10+, 110'): Layback a short, difficult crack section (5.10+). The crack narrows to 1" after about 25'. At this point move left to face climbing (5.10) along a series of bolts leading to the summit.
This is a challenging and fun way up Sheepshead. The route seemed more like 600 feet than 700. Cams up to Camalot #4 and a lot of draws were sufficient for pro. I liked having doubles of 1 and .75. The cracks are mostly parallel sided so I did not place a lot of nuts. Depending on your strengths, the crux of the climb might be on different pitches. For us, the last 2 pitches were just as hard as the third one. However it is hard to compare crack and thin face. We slung a boulder at the second huge ledge above pitch 3. It is also possible to climb ~30 feet above it and use 2 bolts for a hanging belay.
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