New Route - left of ewephoria 

FA:  SA? Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10+ [details] Length:  5 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II Views: 118 page views Submitted By: Geir Hundal on Apr 28, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

A nice new route located left of Ewephoria. At this time I do not know its name, although I have heard it is named "root beer."

To locate the route, walk about 200' uphill from the start of Ewephoria to a clearly defined staging area at the base of Sheepshead. A 30' high pillar stands next to the base of the rock. The first pitch starts on the crack to the right of the cliff. Two bolts are visible along the cliff from the ground.

A topo of this route will soon be available at http://www.geir.com/climbs.html

Pitch 1 (10a/b): Climb the crack, passing two bolts to a roof. Pull the roof to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.7): Follow bolts up the slab to an anchor under a roof.

Pitch 3 (5.10+): Pull the roof, following bolts past two ledges to a two bolt anchor. I suggest splitting this pitch into two pitches by belaying at the first ledge. The crux of this pitch lies just above the first ledge, and the combination of rope stretch and lack of visiblity of your belayer could lead tweaked ankle.

Pitch 4 (5.10): A fantastic pitch. Up the slab to a chimney which narrows to handcrack. At the top of the handcrack traverse right under the roof to a bolted anchor.

Pitch 5 (5.10): Follow bolts up and left to summit.

Protection 

Gear and bolts.