Siberia is the attractive light and dark brown formation rising just north of the trail to Willow Hole with numerous one and two pitch routes on it's large south face. Yasmine Bleeth
(5.9) and Dos Chi Chis
(5.10a) are the most sought after routes here, but several other good routes are to be found as well. Some shorter routes are also found on the shady north face in the Siberian Corridor. Kublai Corner (5.8), Mongoloid (5.9) and Broken Dreams
(5.11b) are the best of those.
The somewhat lengthy hike and minimal amount of information about the area ensures that you'll likely be the only party at this remote and wild-feeling crag. Please stick to established trails and help to maintain the special feel this area has.
Park in the large paved lot at Key's Corner and hike north following a well-defined trail. 1.25 miles after leaving the parking area the trail forks - left along the Boy Scout Trail, which leads to Indian Cove, and right to Willow Hole and deeper into the northern Wonderland. Take the right fork and continue hiking for another 0.75 miles and then leave the trail at a point marked by a trails sign. Follow, at times, an ill-defined trail to a point near the base of the formation and then boulder hop to the base. Plan on an hour for the approach.
Weather station 8.2 miles from here
23 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Siberia
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Siberia
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Siberia:
Gandy 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Dos Chi Chis 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 2 pitches, 240'
Love Gas 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Toby 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
The Bazooka 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Siberia
Dos Chi Chis 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a California
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Siberia
P1) Climb steep slab (5.9+) with intermittent patina past 7 bolts and one fixed pin to an intermediate belay, clip the belay and climb past two more bolts to a bolted belay on a spacious ledge. P2) Climb up and left from the left side of the ledge to a vague arete past 5 bolts via insecure smears (5.10a) to the top of the formation. Descend the route in 3 rappels with a single 60 meter rope - one rap from the summit to the large ledge, another to the intermediate belay below...[more] Browse More Classics in California
J. Smith starting P2 of Showers with Dad
BETA PHOTO: As viewed from the approach gully, this portion of...
Siberia, telephoto from Land's End. A climber can ...
BETA PHOTO: Siberia in late afternoon light from the approach.
Siberia Buttresses. Photo by Blitzo.
Siberia Slab from the southwest. Photo by Blitzo.
Sibera from the top of Asian Fever Buttress. Photo...
BETA PHOTO: Routes "Dos Chi Chi's and "yasmine Bleet...
BETA PHOTO: Siberia (south face) - Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Do...
By Nick Y.
Apr 1, 2012
After taking the right fork, the next turn is no longer marked by a 'small cairn' - it is now a trail marker for "Climber's Trail" for Outer Mongolia.
Read "Hollywood Rattlesnake" Description carefully if coming to this area. Four great climbs right on top of each other. Any chance an admin could make a legit entry for "Showers with Dad"?
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Feb 19, 2013
Approaching Siberia is a fine adventure, but the most direct route through the boulders from the sign isn't really the best. If you continue west and follow the wash around the high rock formation, right of the sign, there is a much easier route through the boulder field with fewer big drops and less climbing over boulders. I'm not trying to promote more social trails, but the one that is signed is arduous with anything bigger than a light pack.