Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Jorge & Joanne Urioste, late 1990s |
Page Views: | 891 total · 46/month |
Shared By: | Taylor Fahey on Jul 16, 2023 · Updates |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Original climb, as described by Joanne Urioste
Pitch 1: Climb about 40 feet of easy class 5 up Cookie Monster and belay on a comfortable ledge. This short pitch reduces rope drag on pitch 2.
Pitch 2: Climb another 60 feet up Cookie Monster’s beautifully varnished, featured corner, to an overhang where one steps left onto the steep, black face and diagonals up and left (past 4 pro bolts) to a 2-bolt belay on the arête. (140’ 5.8)
Pitch 3: Go left 10 feet to gain a crack system in the steep, black face. Follow this crack system straight up, with beautiful stemming and good natural pro. (180’ 5.9)
Descent: 2 rappels down the route with two 60-meter ropes.
Rack: Standard Red Rock rack up to #2 Camalot, plus extra emphasis on wired nuts and cams to 1 inch. #3 Camalot optional for first 70 feet.
Note: It is easy class 5 to go from the top of pitch 3 of this route to join with the top of pitch 2 of Cat in the Hat: climb up to the ridge-top, then descend a short distance.
Variation, as described by Taylor Fahey
A fun route with classic potential just left of cookie monster. It climbs near the first pitch of cookie monster for the first pitch, and the money second pitch of the lesser climbed route 'Pauline's Pentacle' to the left. It has a spectacular bolted section to link the two with very fun climbing through patina jugs.
P1: 5.8 - Climb the crack system that starts 10 feet left of Cookie Monster. After about 100 ft, clip a bolt and start trending left. Clip a few more bolts over the next thirty feet and belay at a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor.
P2: 5.9 - This is the second / money pitch of Pauline's Pentacle. Climb up and slightly right before traversing left on a nice varnished rail. Trend up and left up the first dihedral/crack system you come across, eventually merging into the obvious varnished dihedral. Climbing and pro is excellent throughout this section. Rock quality drops a bit at the end of pitch, but the climbing is easy. Ends at a two-bolt anchor. Unless finishing up CITH, I'd recommend rapping here. Possible with a single 70 by using an intermittent anchor between P1 and the ground. See Topo. Alternatively, climb onwards to merge with cookie monster on the ledge and finish up CITH. It is also possible to rap with a 70m from a tat anchor 30 ft above this ledge to the last anchor of this route.
2 Comments