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Routes in Mescalito

Bed of Nails T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Black Widow Hollow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
C11H17NO3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cat in the Hat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cat in the Phat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Centerfold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chasing Shadows T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Monster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crunchy Cat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge Dressing T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart of Darkness T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Left of Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mescalito - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mescalito - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Negro Blanco T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Next Century, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
OB Button T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OB Fist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parental Guidance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pauligk Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pauline's Pentacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Nuts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rabbit's Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sandstone Sandwich T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Splitting Hares T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This Ain't No Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Too Many Tantrums T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown (Thing 1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Walker Spur, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wasp, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Welcome to Red Rocks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
When A Stranger Calls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Y2K T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mr and Mrs Roland Pauligk, Randy Grandstaff
Page Views: 5,016 total, 32/month
Shared By: Francis Baker (fran) on Mar 2, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This climb fallows a right facing corner for two pitches. It starts just to the left of Y2K. Face climb,jam, and stem up the corner past a thin section(crux) to fixed gear and slings. Continue up the corner angling slightly left using mostly face climbing,stemming, and some chimneying.

Protection

Fixed pro and slings in the crack at top of first pitch,but you can build an anchor and only use them to rappel. Slings around tree on top of second pitch. A standard rack and slings will do. Two ropes to rappel.
Ian McNulty
Romeoville, IL
  5.7+
Ian McNulty   Romeoville, IL
  5.7+
Two nice bolted anchors on pitch 1 as others mentioned. P1 was fun! It was getting late so we skipped P2. No issues rapping with a 70 m and somehow avoided the rope-eating dragons. Give a holler if you get the #3 C4 unstuck below the first roof on P1 ... 6 days ago
Annie Sue
Kalispell, MT
 
Annie Sue   Kalispell, MT
 
3 bolted anchor stations on the route (skip the first one for a fairly long lead, used up almost all my slings heh). We rapped down on 2 -60m ropes to the anchors on the adjacent 5.12 (climbers left). Did this to avoid snagging rope on the way down. The anchor however is a weathered red cord and omega ring wrapped around 2 ~6inch handle features on the wall. Ended up placing some questionable gear and additional backup webbing for an anchor. I rapped off last and left a sling and bail biner. But it was worth it to ensure our ropes got down!!! Guide book mentions another anchor on the 5.12 with a single bolt and gear placement farther down but wasn't sure if my rope would reach and I didn't really see it while rapping down. Otherwise really fun 2 pitches! Nov 12, 2017
Sean Stoops
Henderson, NV
Sean Stoops   Henderson, NV
I can confirm what Gary mentioned about the added stations. Thanks to whoever did that and got rid of the rats nest of slings!

We were still using 60m twins and when pulling the rope it didn't look like a single 60m would reach from the top to the next station down. 70m looks like it would though.

Also of note about the rope eating dragons, don't toss your rope down from the top as it seems that it will eventually slide down and pile up into the deep crack. Especially with knots on the ends. I've now have a core shot about 5ft from the end of my rope from wrenching it up through the crack. Oct 10, 2016
Arin Earl  
 
Had some students lead this today. Someone added a bolted belay station at the top of pitch one and a rap station down low on the route. You could rap the route with a 60m now. We rapped the route with no issues but there is a high chance of getting your rope caught. Oct 7, 2016
Rico Tan
Las Vegas, Nevada
Rico Tan   Las Vegas, Nevada
Fun climb at the grade. We rapped from the tree exact same way as we came up. The first rap rope pull was bad and very easy to get rope snagged on things . Nice climb to do when waiting for another party to finish y2k. Apr 7, 2016
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
I'd second Tom's recommendation of rapping down the face to anchors of Welcome to Red Rocks. It's a much nicer pull. Also, the anchor at 100' is no longer. Mar 24, 2014
Nice climb with varied movement. Beware a very loose flake near top of 2nd pitch. More importantly, beware the rope-eating crack-daemon who lives here. He is hungry. He will not be satisfied with just my rope. He will eat yours, too. Now I have two ropes, but they are very short. May 28, 2013
Ben Townsend  
 
Fun climb. The anchor at the top of the first pitch is cleaned up and in good shape -- currently three fixed nuts and two threads (one with beefy cord), all equalized with a tied-off cordelette and two rings. Apr 28, 2013
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Rapped down the face past the sling nest to the bolts on the 5.12 with 2 60m ropes. Apr 19, 2012
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
I agree with Sheri, Great 1st Pitch, average 2nd pitch. Mar 22, 2011
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
  5.7
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
  5.7
I'd give three stars to the first pitch, 0 to the second. The first pitch was super fun, as it seemed to throw a little of everything at you: a bouldery start, stemming, jamming, OW, face...with good pro and nice rock.

The second pitch added nothing to the route, other than an awkward, extra rappel. Apr 14, 2010
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
Second pitch is actually only 115'. We rapped off the second with a 70m and barely reached the anchors. Then did a double rope rap from second anchor. You could get off with only a 70m if you're willing to trust the ratty nest of slings at 100' on the 1st pitch. Apr 6, 2009
Aminda
Phoenix, AZ
Aminda   Phoenix, AZ
We were thrown off by a tangle of slings at a very small ledge 100 feet off the ground. Keep climbing to the real belay, another 50 feet up. Jan 6, 2009
A short but worthwhile climb with a stellar first pitch that has lots of variety. Made for an interesting 5.7 anyway. I got to do a little traversing under a small roof at the start, some liebacking, stemming, jamming,a little chimneying and chicken-winging too!

Watch out for rope eating cracks when pulling, and throwing ropes. I saw some rope remnants deep inside a crack, and ours almost got eaten too in the same spot. Jun 16, 2006
Francis Baker (fran)
Las Vegas,NV
  5.7+
Francis Baker (fran)   Las Vegas,NV
  5.7+
I should have given this a star when I put it in. I want to return and do the tight dihedral on the right as the second pitch. It looked good and I am not sure if it has been done. If anyone knows please fill me in. I think you might be able to get to the anchor on top of Y2K's P2. This was a good morning out. A good long 1st pitch if u r waiting for Y2K to open up. Mar 10, 2005