Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mescalito

Bed of Nails T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Black Widow Hollow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
C11H17NO3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cat in the Hat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cat in the Phat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Centerfold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chasing Shadows T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Monster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crunchy Cat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge Dressing T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart of Darkness T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Left of Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mescalito - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mescalito - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Negro Blanco T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Next Century, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
OB Button T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OB Fist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parental Guidance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pauligk Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pauline's Pentacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Nuts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rabbit's Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sandstone Sandwich T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Splitting Hares T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This Ain't No Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Too Many Tantrums T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown (Thing 1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Walker Spur, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wasp, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Welcome to Red Rocks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
When A Stranger Calls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Y2K T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Francis Baker and Rex Parker on Labor Day '06
Page Views: 1,829 total, 13/month
Shared By: Francis Baker (fran) on Sep 7, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The crack system 10' left of Splitting Hares. There are several options that will get you to a cleft about 75' off the ground. Build a belay in the cleft. Follow the crack system up to the roof. I did not pull the roof but stayed just below it and traversed right on the horizontals. This kept all the climbing at 5.7. Rappel with two ropes from top of Next Century.

Location

On the NE side of Mescalito between Y2K and Next Century.

Protection

A standard trad rack.

Photos

Brent Butcher
  5.8+
Brent Butcher  
  5.8+
To add on to what Killis said: Rope Drag is horrendous near the top of the second pitch. Extend, extend, extend, or setup an anchor halfway up the second pitch on a small corner. Small gear but plenty of chickenheads to wrap. Feb 9, 2012
It's an ok route for locals. I followed the line pictured in Handren's guide, wide gear pretty helpful-moves are AWKWARD. The Splitting Hares start is probably faster+less gear intensive; both routes are decent but not classics. I thought there were some thin, sustained moves in the corner that didn't feel like 5.7 to me, maybe consistend with Black Dagger sandbaggish rating if that's what was intended. 5.8ish, plenty of thin gear so bring lots of slings. The second pitch is pretty long; I elected to belay on a comfy ledge where the corner ended, then belay a short pitch over to the bolted anchors. That seemed best to me, rope drag would've been miserable otherwise. Dec 3, 2011
Marius
 
Marius  
 
The quality of the rock is poor which makes the climb quite dangerous. Pulling the small roof 5.8+ is a better idea as the second is better protected that traversing under roof (as per guide book). I would not come back and do it again. Dec 1, 2011
Brent Butcher
  5.8+
Brent Butcher  
  5.8+
If you pull the roof, I call it a 5.9- or 5.8+ Nov 18, 2010
Francis Baker (fran)
Las Vegas,NV
 
Francis Baker (fran)   Las Vegas,NV
 
I just went back and did this route for the second time. Some things to mention.
1 I started as per "Splitting Hares" in the corner and went left over the bush,on pockets and cracks, to the cleft 5.8.
2 My partner led the second pitch and belayed on the ledge 75' 5.7
3 I led a third pitch up to the roof and right to the anchor. 5.7+
4 We cleaned a shoe box sized rock and a party on the route after us broke off a few small holds...wear a helmet! Nov 7, 2008