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Routes in East Face
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Black Widow Hollow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bloodline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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C11H17NO3 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Centerfold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Cookie Monster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crunchy Cat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Deep Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ebony Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left of Disco T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Mescalito - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Next Century, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pauligk Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pauline's Pentacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pine Nuts T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Splitting Hares T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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This Ain't No Disco T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Too Many Tantrums T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Walker Spur, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Wasp, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Welcome to Red Rocks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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When A Stranger Calls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Y2K T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m) |
| GPS: | 36.12301, -115.49265 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,288 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Townsend on Dec 4, 2013 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
This route is listed in Supertopo as This Ain't No Disco, but according to Handren, that route is around right on the other side of the pillar. Other than that, the Supertopo information seems pretty accurate.
Diagonal up left across an easy apron, pull an overhang on somewhat sketchy rock, then wander up varnish to the thread anchor of When a Stranger Calls. No fixed protection.
Unfortunately, the rock quality at the crux is poor. The varnished face above is nicer, but never really makes up for the lackluster start.
Photos
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