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Routes in Mescalito

Bed of Nails T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Black Widow Hollow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
C11H17NO3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cat in the Hat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cat in the Phat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Centerfold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chasing Shadows T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Monster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crunchy Cat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge Dressing T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart of Darkness T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Left of Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mescalito - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mescalito - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Negro Blanco T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Next Century, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
OB Button T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OB Fist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parental Guidance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pauligk Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pauline's Pentacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Nuts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rabbit's Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sandstone Sandwich T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Splitting Hares T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This Ain't No Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Too Many Tantrums T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown (Thing 1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Walker Spur, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wasp, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Welcome to Red Rocks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
When A Stranger Calls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Y2K T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Swain, Paul Ross
Page Views: 6,154 total, 39/month
Shared By: Xavier Wasiak on Jan 14, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The Next Century is on the northern end of the east face of the Mescalito in Pine Creek, to the right of Y2K. The first pitch is 5.8, is surprisingly fun and short, and ends at a bolted anchor. The second pitch is a nice long 5.10 with a few bolts, 3 I believe. The face climbing is sustained on beautiful chocolate sandstone and the pitch is not recommended for the faint of heart. The pitch ends at another bolted anchor. Tom Moulin and I simul-rapped off of 8 m lines and, with rope stretch, reached the ground with 2-3 feet to spare. Recommended.

Protection

A few bolts, 3, I think. The rest was smaller gear with a few nuts. I don't think I placed anything larger than a #1 cam on the second pitch. Maybe some larger gear for the first pitch.
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
  5.10c
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
  5.10c
A 70m rope will not get you down this route, ours didn't reach close enough to clip the anchor. An 80m will make it though. Oct 14, 2014
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
  5.10c PG13
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
  5.10c PG13
P1 is fun. P2 feels spicy, but never dangerous. Great route but not 4 stars (see Parental Guidance near Dark Shadows). Apr 13, 2013
Phil Esra  
 
Agreed with most above--feels heady, but not R. Under-appreciated. Maybe not one of the 5 best lines in RR, but definitely top tier. 3.6 stars, not a tenth less than that, that's my final offer. Apr 4, 2013
Cams down to black alien helpful, it's not over after the slab!
R rating is nonsense, single from 00-3, full set wires (mostly small), maybe a couple extra small cams for people pushing themselves on this one do fine. Thoughtful, not scary climbing.

Great climbing and stone. Good example of how a few bolts can allow a classic to happen, without the bolts this thing would never get touched. Jun 3, 2012
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.10d
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  5.10d
The guide definitely suggest too much gear. Singles is fine with tri-cams and nuts to supplement. Lots of cool pods that take tri-cams perfectly and some really good stopper placements I am assuming where the guide is suggesting cams in that range. The second pitch is one of the best trad pitches at the grade at RR. Lots of exposure and fantastic movement. P2 looks so improbable from the belay which made it even more exciting! Apr 21, 2012
Socka
Bloomington, IN
5.10c PG13
Socka   Bloomington, IN
5.10c PG13
Fantastic rock and gear..if you go straight and not zig-zag I suggest at least .10c PG13 three stars Dec 1, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c/d PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10c/d PG13
An amazing line on bullet proof rock. A must do for those who like careful, delicate, thought provoking climbing at this grade. Through the retrospectroscope this is not as run out as it looks - but it seems otherwise until you are right on the gear placement. If you drift off the perfect line (easy to do on stone with so many holds) it is R rated, if not then the gear is fine - bring some small brass, a few wires and a few cams 1/2 inch to 2.5 inches.

FYI we went back and did this recently (2017) - got 16 pieces of gear in so if you want you can totally lace this route up and its not even PG-13. Brilliant climb. Mar 11, 2011
Ross Keller
Parker, CO
  5.10 PG13
Ross Keller   Parker, CO
  5.10 PG13
Great climb, great gear. No way this is PG, let alone R. With a 70m cord you can do it as one pitch with little rope drag. May 10, 2010
Jon Richard
St. Louis, Missouri
 
Jon Richard   St. Louis, Missouri
 
Great Climb! I don't think it is deserving of an R rating. I'd say maybe PG. The slab/face is way fun and this route should not be missed! Apr 22, 2009
Josh Audrey
LAS VEGAS
  5.10b/c
Josh Audrey   LAS VEGAS
  5.10b/c
doubles to red alien single to #2 cam, thoughtful moves take u all the way! Jan 15, 2009
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
I thought P2 was definitely run-out, albeit on fairly easy climbing. The cruxy moves are early and well-bolted, so if you get past those the rest of the pitch should be a cruise. Contra John, I didn't think this was really a slab climb, more like thin face. Suptertopo puts it at 10d. Real good, whatever it is. Oct 14, 2008
Aaron S
  5.10d
Aaron S  
  5.10d
The red Brock guide lists the second pitch as 100' however our 70m rope came up just a foot or two short of the 1st pitch anchors. Close enough to clip with a sling but two 60m's would be a better idea. I was happy to have a set of camalots to #3. Dec 11, 2006
Andrew Gomoll
Las Vegas, NV
 
Andrew Gomoll   Las Vegas, NV
 
thanks for making me sound kick ass vegastradguy. the reality is that this is a sweet route and the pro is fine. (pg at the most) definatly 10d with spectacular delicate moves. bring an array of gear from brass to #3 cam and you're psyched. Nov 21, 2006
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c/d PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c/d PG13
really good line...my partner made the second pitch look easy. I'd say the slab is .10d, but my experience on .10d slabs is limited. I was able to do it, though...so maybe .10c, who knows?

Anyway, with two ropes, you can do a single rap to a ledge just right of the route and walk off from there. We pulled the ropes enough to reach the base, then pulled from there...less worry about snags. Apr 14, 2006
J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.10b
J. Thompson   denver, co
  5.10b
Rack for pitch 2...one set of small to medium nuts, 2 blue aliens, 2 red alien2. You might find a spot for something bigger in a heuco, but you don't need it.'d say about 5.10b/c

May 4, 2005
Anthony Anagnostou   nyc
 
re: route description. P2 has four bolts, not three. given the thin pro on the route, if you want to load up the huecos with cams, you could fit pieces a lot bigger than #1. or if you're a bad-ass you can stick with the light rack. im not a bad-ass..

one thing the route has going for it is the rock is bomber. really high quality. makes the occasional move high over pro feel a lot better, i figure.

two folks i asked mentioned 10d for P2. i have no opinion myself. Mar 13, 2005
Francis Baker (fran)
Las Vegas,NV
  5.10b
Francis Baker (fran)   Las Vegas,NV
  5.10b
An excelent route. The first pitch is better than it appears. Start on the left side of the chimney, move up a few feet and then left into the crack system. The rest of P1 is obvious. Alone it is a good pitch and a 60m will get you down. The p2 is what this route is all about. I thought it was a face climb!? Two 60m ropes with one rappel down the west side to decend. Mar 12, 2005
Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
 
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
 
Not a grade VI!! or VS!!! Grade I and maybe S, depending on your comfort level. Jan 17, 2005