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Routes in Mescalito

Bed of Nails T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Black Widow Hollow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
C11H17NO3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cat in the Hat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cat in the Phat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Centerfold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chasing Shadows T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Monster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crunchy Cat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge Dressing T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart of Darkness T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Left of Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mescalito - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mescalito - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Negro Blanco T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Next Century, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
OB Button T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OB Fist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parental Guidance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pauligk Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pauline's Pentacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Nuts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rabbit's Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sandstone Sandwich T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Splitting Hares T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This Ain't No Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Too Many Tantrums T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown (Thing 1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Walker Spur, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wasp, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Welcome to Red Rocks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
When A Stranger Calls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Y2K T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Todd Swain & Paul Ross, 11/98
Page Views: 12,686 total, 74/month
Shared By: Scott Conner on Oct 27, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is an outstanding route that is usually less crowded than other routes in RR of the same quality. It is possible to climb only the crux first pitch and rap with double ropes but the whole climb is fun and interesting; especially the fourth.

Y2K is located on the north-east corner of the Mescalito. On the approach, spot a pinkish dihedral that has a sharp curve to the right in it. To the right of this dihedral is a bolted face that leads to a roof. This is the route.

P1: 5.10a, 150' Begin atop a large boulder leaning against the face. Climb up past several bolts to the overhang. Turn the overhang (crux) and continue up the crack and face to a bolted belay. The crux is very well protected with a bolt and you can place a good cam just above the bolt.

P2: 5.8, 160' Climb straight up the face to a huge ledge and a double-bolt belay. There are two ledges here; one stepped above the other.

P3: 5.5, 50' Scramble up onto the next ledge and work around to the right. Traverse straight right to a nice belay alcove at the base of a right facing corner and build a gear anchor.

P4: 5.9, 150' Climb the stellar right facing corner. Near the top, the crack goes from thin to non-existent and pro becomes a bit tricky. Step left onto a ledge and belay from the anchors. I'd give this pitch a PG rating but it is superb.

Decent: 3 double rope raps.

Protection

Lots of bolts but bring a rack of gear from tiny to about 2".
David
 
David  
 
A great route to combine with Dark Shadows in the same day. This is very doable for the 5.8-9 trad leader and felt similar in difficulty to Dark Shadows. The 10a rating comes from the roof move which is protected by a bolt.

The second pitch is steep but has several bolts and is basically sport climbing.

Gearlooptopo says micro nuts are required for the 4th pitch crux but we found a blue tricam protects the crux perfectly, no micronuts required. IMHO and YMMV.

It’s very nice to do Pauligk Pillar while waiting for this climb if there’s a line. 6 days ago
Vince Buffalini
Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.10a
Vince Buffalini   Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.10a
carelessly pulled my rope on the first rappel into the chossy crack directly above the pitch 2 anchors. had to lead up 30ft to free it and downclimb, about 5.7 with good pro. it wasnt a big deal but could have been worse. other than that the climbing is fun and the rock is fantastic. the only flaw is that is it's short. 3 great pitches and a short exciting traverse Dec 1, 2017
Leslie McG
  5.10a/b
Leslie McG  
  5.10a/b
If you're 5'3" like me, the roof move is not 5.9! That being said, it's more than obvious how to do it so I fail to see the need to discuss specific beta. I found the entire 1st pitch to be spooky, marginal pro between bolts and really only one way to go to make it 5.10a. I also found the move to the anchor to be very delicate, unless I just didn't traverse early enough. The second pitch is very sustained for a 5.8 leader; there is good pro everywhere on this pitch, which is one of the best at its grade in the park. We only did the first two pitches and had no issue with stuck ropes upon rappel, despite the 50 mph gusts and sustained 35 mph winds. We did nothing special- saddle bagged our ropes and pulled straight down each time. Apr 24, 2017
Wished for some BallNuts on the last pitch - didn't see an obvious way to make nuts work, and there weren't comfortable stances for experimentaion. Finished P4 feeling lucky to have made it, would rap after P2 if I climbed this route again.

Kind of agree with the above comment "the crux feels 5.9 if you're tall". Maybe 10a, but no more. How tall is tall ? Not very tall at all - under 6'. Jul 25, 2016
Carter Young
San Francisco, CA
 
Carter Young   San Francisco, CA
 
Did this route back in January with Dave Carey (father extraordinaire now!) It is a superb route with several distinct pitches. the only thing that I would change about the description here is that this is certainly not a 400 ft route. the handren guide says 550 ft and I believe that this is much closer to the truth. May 15, 2016
Manderson198
  5.9+
Manderson198  
  5.9+
Climbed this with Eric a couple of months ago. Pretty fun route. The bolts on the face of pitch one below the route seemed a bit unnecessary, as there was decent gear at and in between the bolts. That being said, I was pretty thankful for the bolt above the roof. The move is not that difficult, but the beta is a bit tricky to figure out. The crux pitch of the route is definitely the 4th---fun corner, with some thin moves near the top. Mar 19, 2015
Chris Sepic
Bend, OR
Chris Sepic   Bend, OR
got in a pretty solid HB offset #4 (pink) and an ok green c3 at the P4 crux. Mar 20, 2013
Sharon B.
Porltand, OR
  5.10a
Sharon B.   Porltand, OR
  5.10a
Excellent, interesting route. Please note, the hanger on the left bolt at the top of P4 SPINS. Wish I hadn't checked before the rap, but thought I'd share in case a local has the means to repair/replace. Most of the climb felt like 5.7-5.9 climbing, except the single move on the roof, which is easy enough once you get the sequence right Mar 18, 2013
Climbed first pitch today before getting rained off before starting the second. It a really good pitch the whole way. Felt like allot of 5.7 and the overhang was pretty easy 5.9 at most. Really fun but not 5.10. Great gear the whole way. Apr 26, 2012
JimmyK
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
JimmyK   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Climbed on 03/10/2012. Climb felt 5.7-5.9.
Recommendation: Go straight up on P2 from P1 anchors instead of veering left then up.
Question: Why not go straight up from the anchors at P2 instead of doing the traverse? This would make the climb 3 direct 150-160 ft pitches and the line for P3 looked cool. Mar 11, 2012
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.9
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.9
Wonderfully fun first 2 pitches...had a smile on m face the entire time. First pitch crux felt very easy for 10a (felt similar to a Gunks 5.9), though. Feb 25, 2012
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
How did Swain know to traverse right? My guess is, he inspected the route with binocs before beginning his ascent. Probably he also used high res photos of the cliff to assist in drawing the topos in his RR guidebook, that is a great way to get all the cracks in the right place. Hint, hint, to all you aspiring guidebook authors. Nov 9, 2011
NickinCO
colorado
  5.10a
NickinCO   colorado
  5.10a
Climbed pitch 1 today after doing Dark Shadows just to do the roof move that is so talked about here. Didn't think it was very difficult at all. 10a for sure. The good high left hand flake does flex a little bit though. If that ever breaks I'd give it a 10b/c, otherwise 10a and pretty easy to figure out once you look at it. There's a good rest right after too. Going to finish up the route on my next trip ran out of time today. Mar 31, 2011
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
Climbed with Cathy from Toronto on St Patricks Day. I thought it was very good climbing. We did P3 & P4 which was worth doing. Yes, be carefull rapping from P4 but with a little care trouble can be avoided. Don't let it stop you from climbing the whole route. Mar 22, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9+
Spectacular first pitch. This pitch is 3-4 stars and deserves being climbed even if you do not wish to finish the route. The middle two pitches are ho-hum. The final pitch has a short, steep, thin section that takes a small RP and perhaps microcam then a bit of a run with no gear on 5.9 terrain - keeps you focused. Mar 10, 2011
Did the route as two parties of two and not a single thing came off.
Loose stuff on the start of the traverse ledge but you'd have to really work it to be knocking stuff off.

Very fun climb, with cold fingers (and being short) I thought the roof was challenging enough but it's just a couple or so moves.
Glad I didn't see this beta first though. Wonder if that side pull is ever going to snap off on some ham fisted climber?

Probably better to climb this a bit later in the spring.
We were ok on 2/13/11 but it was shady and cold rock all day but without wind it was bearable. I'd certainly do it again.

(and many thanks for the hookup Brie and Sam) Feb 15, 2011
I was on Too many tantrums (right of y2k) and the party on y2k was raining rocks down on us the whole way! How much loose rock does this route have? Is it like that the whole way up? Dec 18, 2010
Doug Foust
Henderson, Nevada
  5.9
Doug Foust   Henderson, Nevada
  5.9
Crux feels 5.9 if you are tall Oct 17, 2010
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
The p1 anchors are 3/8, but are threaded through the chains, which seems typical of the FA party. Would be a great place for 2 fatty stainless about 6" higher. also, a 7 HB is the $$ piece for the last pitch. Sep 8, 2010
Unboundquark  
 
I really enjoyed this route. I climbed it a few days ago with Sherri^.

I led P1 & 3, Sherri let P2 & 4. We climbed on twin 60m ropes, had a set of wires and cams to 2". We also had some micros with us but they never got placed, not even on the 4th pitch.

P1 was really nice straightforward climbing. I got up to the roof, clipped the bolt, had a look at the holds that were there... looked for holds that weren't there... looked at my feet... and make the move, It's not a tough move, it's just a matter of figuring out the hands/feet sequence before committing to the move.

The next two pitches weren't as interesting. Good climbing on solid pro.

P4, led by Sherri had so many opportunities for small cam placements on the 4th pitch and I'm not even sure where the micros could have gone.

Overall though... a great route to combine with Dark Shadows on the same day. Although their ratings are 5.10a and 5.8 respectively, I think the two routes were about the same level of difficulty.

-Glenn Mar 31, 2010
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
I'd agree with the 2 1/2 star rating on this. While not classic, it is a pleasant route, which, when combined with something nearby like Dark Shadows, makes for a great full day of climbing at the grade.

Other than the crux(one-move, bolt-protected), nothing on this route felt more difficult than anything on Dark Shadows. It is loaded with super positive holds. Even the 5.9 pitch described as steep and thin had buckets for your feet and sufficient pro.

The beta about the crux move didn't spoil the fun. Even if you know what to look for, you still have to figure out how to make it work for your reach, etc. Mar 29, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Great fun, mellow climbing on ladder-like holds--so good! The first pitch gives excellent easy warm-up climbing to the imposing-looking roof up high.

It's too bad people have written exact beta on 'how to do' the roof move here--it's much more satisfying to just figure it out yourself for the onsight.

The second pitch provides easy climbing but is exciting and quality due to the very steep nature and sustained exposure throughout much of the pitch. I would also recommend slinging everything long on this pitch to minimize rope drag. Jan 19, 2010
Lynn S
 
Lynn S  
 
Excellent line, pitches 1,2 and 4 are very fun. Pitch 4 was great with good gear in my opinion. If 5.9 is pushing your limit then you may find it exciting making the last couple of moves to easy ground. Apr 6, 2009
jblackattack blac
las vegas, nv
 
jblackattack blac   las vegas, nv
 
Fun route enjoyed it thoroughly. My only questions are: why so many bolts on the first pitch compared to the second pitch? When you leave the first belay going straight up, it seemed a bit run out. I found some marginal small wire placements and did not really feel like I got a decent nut in for at least 15ft maybe 20ft up past the belay. The climbing was not all that hard granted, but why bolt the heck out of the first pitch making it literally a sport climb and not have a bolt on the second pitch for about 40ft up? I thought the climbing was very similar on the first two pitches and of similar difficulty other then the pull over the roof of course. Nov 8, 2008
MJW
Boise, ID
MJW   Boise, ID
1st pitch: 5.7 buckets to a 5.9+/10a move over the roof...more 5.7
2nd pitch: 5.7+ .Climb straight over the belay for the best rock and experience. There is good pro up and giant holds up there until you get to the first bolt.Stays easy! The rock to either side is chossy.
3rd pitch: Do the traverse into the corner. One bolt for the belay in the corner. Med cams for backup if you wish.
4th pitch: 5.7 fun climbing to the end of the corner. Maybe a 5.8 move up there? Good, small wire pro from big stances. Lots of face holds. NOT 5.9!!!!!!!!! Oct 27, 2008
Jim Matt
Indianapolis, IN
  5.10a
Jim Matt   Indianapolis, IN
  5.10a
I would say 5.10a if you can wire the two moves over the roof (it took me a couple of tries...but the aforementioned beta is right on...a well placed left crimp and a hidden high left foot are key, step up and grab the high jug with the right hand). Otherwise, the rest of the route runs about 5.8+. May 3, 2007
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Super fun route! I can't in good consience gove this a 10a rating. It was a pretty straightforward move. If this is 10a then Chicken Eruptus should be 10d. Jul 3, 2006
Pro is a little tricky and sparse going straight up from the anchors on pitch 2 but very fun! I used small gear for the entire pitch. The biggest cam I used for pitch 2 was a #1 cam. Feb 2, 2006
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
  5.10a
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
  5.10a
An outstanding route. The key to the roof on the first pitch is a small flake high on the face to the left of the crack. The first time I did this move I didn't see the flake and the move felt harder than 10b. This time it felt easier than 10b and with this beta my 2 followers fired the move with no problem.

Put your right hand on the nice hold about 18 inches up the crack and your left on the flake and work your feet up, eventually pivoting up on your left. Sep 12, 2005
J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.10a
J. Thompson   denver, co
  5.10a
I thought the route was a bit contrived. With the culprit being the traverse. Why when there is a crack going straight up, would you traverse straight right to gain a different crack, that takes you to the same place?

Jun 8, 2005
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.10b
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.10b
The P1 roof crux is a tough one to figure out (5.10b/c). I had to climb up and down 3 time before I figured out the move. There is a good crimp in the crack for the left hand, high step with the left, and grab the side pull. Get a knee or foot on the ledge to the right and grab the large bucket. It then reverts back to fun 5.8-5.9 climbing to the anchor.

P2 has two variations off of the belay. Straight up is beautiful face and thin crack climbing 5.8, but poorly protected. (tiny cams and nuts) A 5.6 variation on the left avoids the runout, but make sure you use long slings.

The rap from P4 is known to grab ropes, so be careful. Oct 26, 2004
Thought first pitch is the best, but overall a worthwhile route to do to its end. The traverse on 3 is great fun. Only wish there was more. The last pitch is 160 feet. Swain's topo obscures the "1" in 160. The last ten feet of the dihedral are the crux, and more like 5.8. Three straightforward raps to the bottom. We got hung up on the last rap when the rope caught on something about 20-25 feet up, but were able to free it from the ground. May 30, 2004
Drederek
  5.10a
Drederek  
  5.10a
Sorry if i came off as an elitist snob. What could be more stellar than the 3rd-4th class finish of Epinephrine? The last 15 feet of p4 of Y2K was very good but that doesn't make the whole pitch stellar IMHO

I think part of my dissappointment with the pitch in question was my expectations of it after reading about it here. It is an airy pitch with solid rock and some nice moves. Just not "stellar" in my book. May 12, 2004
10b4me  
"Did not find P4 to be stellar as it was mostly low 5th."

So you find quality only in harder routes/pitches? Can 5.5 climbing be "stellar" for you? I've done lots of stellar 4th class climbing; probably even 3rd... May 7, 2004
Drederek
  5.10a
Drederek  
  5.10a
Climbed this route 5/02/04. Was comfortable with the pro and appreciated the bolt below the roof. Once I figured the right foot sequence the roof went easily. Did not find P4 to be stellar as it was mostly low 5th. May 6, 2004
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
 
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
 
We climbed this again this past Monday. A few comments on P2: I took note of the rope I had left after pulling up the excess on P2 and it was only about 20'! We had a 60m so this pitch must be closer to 180'. Also, P2 has 3 or 4 bolts and they're hard to see. If you have trouble figuring out which way to go, as the pitch wanders a bit, look for these. This is a long, steep and beautiful pitch as good as anything on CC. Mar 10, 2004
We backed down from the crux. Probably could have aided it but it was getting late and we spend way too much time trying to free it. Didn't seem anywhere near 10a. Next time I'll just aid through and not waste my effort there.

John Mar 8, 2004
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
There is another belay stance at the end of p3 that has a bolt (and backs up with gear). Unfortuntely, it's about 10 feet below the gear-only stance, and you can't really see the bolt until you're basically at the stance (it's obscured during the traverse by a corner/overlap).

The mental switch from the steep and positive holds on the first two pitches to the insecure traversing of p3 was a challenge. Feb 21, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
FA (pitches 2-4): Todd Swain, Paul Ross, 1998. The first two pitches have some runouts but Scott is right the crux is well protected. Feb 20, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
Watch out for the "Y2K bug" on this route, you need 55 or 60m ropes. We did it with twin 50's, and had to simulclimb the final 15' of the second pitch. It didn't take a genius to see we were in trouble for the descent, this wall is steep and you can't just downclimb the bottom of the pitch. We left a double sling on that anchor and went down, you can be sure the ends were knotted. Due to rope stretch we made it, but by less than 6 feet.

The pitch lengths are not 20th century compliant! Woe to the poor souls who venture on this route with two 150 ft ropes! Feb 20, 2004