Type: Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Long, Lynn Hill, Richard Harrison 1981
Page Views: 8,473 total · 46/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Oct 4, 2005
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route is as close to climbing in Yosemite as you can get in Red Rock.The climb is located on the east face of the Mescalito. Hike in as if you are going to Cat in the Hat, shortly before you turn the corner of the SE buttress head up hill on a climbers trail. Pick your way thru the terrance above by going up it's right side. You'll head back left(south) across the top of the terrace, the start of the climb is a flat area of dirt and rocks in between some bush's, it is very obvious. You will be below an obvious, hanging, flared chimney that is orange/white in color, this feature is located on the second pitch.

Pitch #1- Head up the plated face aiming for the left side and a bulge leading to an obvious thin crack. Surmount the bulge(on the left) at 5.10a R. It is very important to locate good gear under the bulge...and you will still be looking at a slab/ledge fall if you blow the moves (but they are solid). Once on top of the bulge you will be at a very good stance. There is a fixed piton in the crack above. Ascend the finger crack (5.10c) to a small, good stance directly below the chimney and the bolt on pitch 2. There are 2 stances here and you want to be on the lower of the 2. You'll need several 1" piece to belay here. The crux moves aren't as obvious as they sound...look around. (5.10c, R-110').

Pitch #2- Start up the chimney and clip the bad bolt(there is very good gear available to back it up). After clipping the bolt traverse left onto the obvious varnished face. DO NOT CLIMB THE CHIMNEY! Climb up the face at 5.9, there is at least 1 good gear placement on the face but it is not super obvious. At the top of the chimney there is a roof and there will be an obvious place to step across the chimney to the crack on the right side of the roof. Follow this perfect finger/hand/fist crack for another 100'. When the crack becomes a bomb bay chimney look up and left for an obvious stance on the outside wall. There is a very good bolt here with a brown hanger, this and a very good nut are the belay. Warning!! There are a couple of inobvious, loose blocks at this stance, watch what you are kicking! (5.9, 150').

Pitch #3- Continue up by face climbing either side of the chimney until it pinches back down(which is not very far)then follow the crack system up and left as the angle ease's off and the climbing turns back into Red rocks style. There are several option for belaying/descending from here. If you'd like to climb the last pitch of cat in the hat you'll want to watch for a "cavey" area directly below the obvious crux pitch of CITH. There are sling's around a boulder on a ledge, it's about 200' between the pitch 2 belay and this spot. Then continue on CITH and descend as for the same. If you want to skip the last pitch of CITH you can easily traverse in to the "pancake" belay and start rapping. This is about 210' from the pitch 2 belay and will require some simul climbing. A third option exists, however I have not done it. Apparently you can head up and right to the obvious tree in the rock. From this tree you can rap onto the route "Pine Nuts" and then use the anchors on this route to rappel the east face landing you back very near your pack. This option is less then 200' from the pitch 2 belay. Regardless which option you choose pitch 3 is about 5.5. This route is truly amazing.

Protection

A standard Rack, to a #3 Camalot will suffice. However you should also bring a couple of extra 1" pieces as you need them at the Belay on the top of pitch 1. There is a bad bolt at the start of pitch 2 and a brand new bolt at the belay on top of pitch 2. If you want to really sewn it up bring a double set of cams from a green Alien thru #3 Camalot.

Photos