Type: Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Long, Lynn Hill, Richard Harrison 1981
Page Views: 10,384 total · 45/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Oct 4, 2005 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Pitch #1- Face climb up moderate, steep jugs aiming for the left side of a ledge below a steep bulge with high bolt near the arete, Clip the bolt from the ledge and make a boldery move to another ledge (5.10b). A 5.8R option to skip this move is to the right about 10 feet.  With this unprotected option It is very important to locate some good gear under the bulge. Once on the ledge above the bulge, there is a fixed piton (and hopefully a slightly higher fixed nut) in the crack above. Face climb up (crux) to where the crack opens up to a hand jam and then continue excellent 5.9 fingers to a good stance in the chimney at a modern bolted belay. (5.10c, 110').

Pitch #2- Clip a sad old bolt a couple feet above the belay and traverse left onto the arete. The 5.9 crux comes early with excellent climbing on positive holds with a few places for decent gear.  After about 20' there is a juggy roof with good gear, stem over right and ascent a wonderful finger crack that slowly widens to #3 camelot size.  Lots of great face holds and jams make this very pleasant.. When the crack becomes almost a chimney look up and left for an obvious stance on the outside wall. There is a modern bolt here with a brown hanger, this and a very good nut are the belay. (5.9, 150').

Pitch #3- Continue up the moderate crack (5.5) on large face holds for about 80 feet until the angle eases to a ledge. There are several options for belaying/descending from here.  One option is to trend left from here to find the start of the 3rd pitch of Cat In the Hat where you can continue that route or rappel that route with a single 70 meter rope.  

The recommended option is to continue pitch #3 from the ledge up and slightly left for 40 feet along a crack (the most appealing line from this point) on easy jugs to an easy traverse left and then up 10 feet to a nice compfy gear belay with a steep right facing varnished corner directly above.  This adds another 70' of fun and very easy climbing to pitch #3.  This belay spot is about 30 feet right of the middle of the steep 3rd pitch 5.6 crack of Cat In the Hat.  Ascend this fine corner as a fourth pitch into the 5.7 5th pich and last bolted anchor of Cat In the Hat (5.8, 90').

You could also end after the first two pitches by traversing 20 feet straight right from the end of the second pitch to find the second ptich anchor of "Pine Nuts".  Rappel that route in two raps to your pack.  A single 70 meter rope probably won't work for this but a single 80 meter rope will.  

This route is truly amazing.

Approach Suggest change

This route is as close to climbing in Yosemite as you can get in Red Rock.The climb is located on the east face of the Mescalito. Hike in as if you are going to Cat in the Hat, shortly before you turn the corner of the SE buttress head up hill on a climbers trail. Pick your way thru the terrance above by going up it's right side. You'll head back left(south) across the top of the terrace, the start of the climb is a flat area of dirt and rocks in between some bush's, it is very obvious. You will be below an obvious, hanging, flared chimney that is orange/white in color, this feature is located on the second pitch.

Protection Suggest change

A standard double rack of cams to #3 Camalot and smaller stoppers including a few smaller finger size cams. First pitch ends at a modern bolted belay.  One new bolt and a fixed pin on pitch one.  There is a bad bolt at the start of pitch 2 and a modern bolt at the belay on top of pitch 2.

Photos

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