Avg: 3.1 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, 480 ft, 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,546 total · 72/month|
|Shared By:||Nelson Day on Mar 29, 2015|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis last pitch of this route is THE best finger crack in the history of mankind. Ever. I couldn't believe it just kept going and going. Splitter locker fingers. Need I say more? Due to some other reviews/comments, I am going to revise this statement. I will say this is the best finger crack I have done in Red Rock..
Approach as per Deep Space. We chose the climber left side of the triangle rubble heap getting up to the route start. If you choose to pitch this out, it's about 200 feet of mostly 4th class with a little bit of 5th class mixed in. Call it pitches 1 & 2. This will land you at the top of the rubble triangle heap (as it appears in the Handren guide book picture).
Pitch 3: From the top of the rubble heap, when you look up, you will see a line of bolts going up the face to the left of the chimneys of deep space. This is the first true pitch of the climb. Follow the bolt line up the face, over a bulge (crux), and up committing slabs (trending left) to the base of the finger crack. This pitch ends on a nice ledge with a bolted anchor. 9-10 bolts, 180 feet, 5.10b/c and spicy.
Pitch 4: The money pitch. Follow the amazing and sustained splitter finger crack for ~100 feet up the face. About 50 feet up this pitch, as one crack peters out, switch to another splitter crack (transition protected by a bolt) and continue up excellent edging and finger locks. Before you know it, you will be at a steeper section of the face (possibly slightly overhanging). Continue up this section (crux) to a roof. Pull over the roof with bomber hand jams (#3 camalot) and continue about 10 feet to a heavy duty chain anchor/hanging belay. This pitch is mostly green alien, but you can get an assortment of nuts as well as a few other cams in pods. I took two green aliens and ended up bumping one for about 30 feet before leaving it, and then immediately placing the second green alien and bumping it... 100 feet, 5.11a
Rap the climb with two ropes.