Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Sal Mamusia & Paul Van Betten - 1986
Page Views: 4,457 total · 30/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on May 10, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Welcome to Red Rocks should be considered a good, but contrived, route at 5.12 and an excellent route at easy 5.11 (taking the obvious variation to avoid the crux).

Begin the route just left of Pauligk Pillar below an obvious hanging right-facing dihedral. Do a short approach pitch up rampy corners at 5.7 to a belay. The meat of the route tackles the corner above to a good stance below a bolt. Continue straight up the blank corner at 5.12 (contrived), or foot traverse out a horizontal crack to the right, up face holds, and hand traverse back into the corner on a second crack. In either case, once above the crux, continue up the corner to another choice: Heading straight right to a threaded anchor or up the varnished, highly featured face above. Heading right allows descent to the ground with a single 70m rope, but going up provides some fun, and at times run out, face climbing on huge holds up a steep wall.

Protection

Standard rack, no brass needed. The protection bolt was replaced by the ASCA in 2007.

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.12
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.12
The 11a variation is good but hardly 11a. More like 10b. Good climbing, good but flaky rock at times. 5.12 corner is good old fashioned burl. Anchor is in fine shape and can be backed up with a #3 Camalot for a TR on the corner. Some shenanigans required to TR the 5.12- so just lead it! You really wouldn't need small stoppers cuz you won't have any stance in which to place them from. Small cams up to .75 or 1 would do the trick. Oct 14, 2016