Welcome to Red Rocks
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Sal Mamusia & Paul Van Betten - 1986 |
Page Views: | 6,999 total · 33/month |
Shared By: | Josh Janes on May 10, 2007 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Welcome to Red Rocks should be considered a good, but contrived, route at 5.12 and an excellent route at easy 5.11 (taking the obvious variation to avoid the crux).
Begin the route just left of Pauligk Pillar below an obvious hanging right-facing dihedral. Do a short approach pitch up rampy corners at 5.7 to a belay. The meat of the route tackles the corner above to a good stance below a bolt. Continue straight up the blank corner at 5.12 (contrived), or foot traverse out a horizontal crack to the right, up face holds, and hand traverse back into the corner on a second crack. In either case, once above the crux, continue up the corner to another choice: Heading straight right to a threaded anchor or up the varnished, highly featured face above. Heading right allows descent to the ground with a single 70m rope, but going up provides some fun, and at times run out, face climbing on huge holds up a steep wall.
Begin the route just left of Pauligk Pillar below an obvious hanging right-facing dihedral. Do a short approach pitch up rampy corners at 5.7 to a belay. The meat of the route tackles the corner above to a good stance below a bolt. Continue straight up the blank corner at 5.12 (contrived), or foot traverse out a horizontal crack to the right, up face holds, and hand traverse back into the corner on a second crack. In either case, once above the crux, continue up the corner to another choice: Heading straight right to a threaded anchor or up the varnished, highly featured face above. Heading right allows descent to the ground with a single 70m rope, but going up provides some fun, and at times run out, face climbing on huge holds up a steep wall.
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