Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Sal Mamusia & Paul Van Betten - 1986
Page Views: 6,551 total · 33/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on May 10, 2007
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Welcome to Red Rocks should be considered a good, but contrived, route at 5.12 and an excellent route at easy 5.11 (taking the obvious variation to avoid the crux).

Begin the route just left of Pauligk Pillar below an obvious hanging right-facing dihedral. Do a short approach pitch up rampy corners at 5.7 to a belay. The meat of the route tackles the corner above to a good stance below a bolt. Continue straight up the blank corner at 5.12 (contrived), or foot traverse out a horizontal crack to the right, up face holds, and hand traverse back into the corner on a second crack. In either case, once above the crux, continue up the corner to another choice: Heading straight right to a threaded anchor or up the varnished, highly featured face above. Heading right allows descent to the ground with a single 70m rope, but going up provides some fun, and at times run out, face climbing on huge holds up a steep wall.

Protection

Standard rack, no brass needed. The protection bolt was replaced by the ASCA in 2007.

Photos