All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Pine Creek Canyon > Mescalito > E Face

The Wasp

Name: The Wasp
Rating: 2.9

5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in East Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black Widow Hollow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bloodline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	C11H17NO3 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Centerfold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Commitment Issues TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Cookie Monster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Crunchy Cat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
	Deep Space T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Ebony Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Left of Disco T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Mescalito - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Next Century, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Pauligk Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pauline's Pentacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pine Nuts T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Splitting Hares T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	This Ain't No Disco T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Too Many Tantrums T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Walker Spur, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Wasp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Welcome to Red Rocks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	When A Stranger Calls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Y2K T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 340 ft (103 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	36.12301, -115.49265
FA:	Joe Herbst, Randall Granstaff 1976
Page Views:	3,506 total · 17/month
Shared By:	J. Thompson on Mar 11, 2009
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

Pitch 1: Start by climbing the white rock leading to the varnished thin corner above. Continue up through a section of finger locks and stemming. The corner will begin to open up into hands and eventually an easy chimney. Solution pockets on the side walls keep the grade to a very pleasent 5.9. At the top of the chimney pull into a large "hole". This is a very unique feature and certainly adds to the route quality. There are 2 ways to exit the hole. The first is to squeeze out the obvious opening near the middle of the constriction. The second is to climb out the bottom and up the outside. Both options are about the same difficulty. However both options will not be available to everyone...fat kids(like me) will have to use the later. Continue upward via stemming and jamming. The pitch ends at 2 good bolts on the right hand wall. 180ft, 5.9.

Pitch 2: Start by continuing up the corner for 20ft until you reach an obvious roof. Undercling and layback out the roof. Continue climbing the nice varnished crack above. Belay at it's top on a large ledge. 160ft, 5.9+.

Descent: Traverse the ledge to the west/north west. This is the terrace at the top of the first pitch on Cat in the hat. Rappel CITH with 1 60M rope ...doing 2 rappels.

A very good climb.