Type: Trad, 340 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Joe Herbst, Randall Granstaff 1976
Page Views: 1,945 total · 16/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Mar 11, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Pitch 1: Start by climbing the white rock leading to the varnished thin corner above. Continue up through a section of finger locks and stemming. The corner will begin to open up into hands and eventually an easy chimney. Solution pockets on the side walls keep the grade to a very pleasent 5.9. At the top of the chimney pull into a large "hole". This is a very unique feature and certainly adds to the route quality. There are 2 ways to exit the hole. The first is to squeeze out the obvious opening near the middle of the constriction. The second is to climb out the bottom and up the outside. Both options are about the same difficulty. However both options will not be available to everyone...fat kids(like me) will have to use the later. Continue upward via stemming and jamming. The pitch ends at 2 good bolts on the right hand wall. 180ft, 5.9.

Pitch 2: Start by continuing up the corner for 20ft until you reach an obvious roof. Undercling and layback out the roof. Continue climbing the nice varnished crack above. Belay at it's top on a large ledge. 160ft, 5.9+.

Descent: Traverse the ledge to the west/north west. This is the terrace at the top of the first pitch on Cat in the hat. Rappel CITH with 1 60M rope ...doing 2 rappels.

A very good climb.

Location

On the south east corner of the mescalito. This is the large open book corner seen just before turning the corner to the south face.

Protection

Single set, nuts to #4 camalot size. Optional #5.

Photos