Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Gill, Paul Ross & Todd Swain, 12/98
Page Views: 1,527 total · 11/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Apr 13, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Start about 20 ft right of Walker spur, on the same ledge.
Pitch 1:Begin up a heucoed face. You 'll see a bolt in brown varnish about 60 ft up. Link features to this first bolt, and a second bolt will appear shortly. Climb out the roof and up the face above to a 2 bolt anchor on a small ledge.5.10b.
Pitch 2: Continue up the perfect varnished face. Link small cracks and obvious features for 130' to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8.

Descent: rap the route with 2 ropes.

Location

East face of the Mescalito, between The Walker Spur and When a stranger calls.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 3"

Photos

This route has had an 'R' rating at some point in the guidy-books. Not so. Solid pro, both pitches. 1st has some scrambling to get to first placement, nowhere near difficult. Mar 19, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9- PG13
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.9- PG13
Fun, featured rock serves up some really enjoyable climbing. The first pitch has a good bit of very friable rock so leaders should climb with caution. The roof looks pretty intimidating from below but turns out to be quite easy. Due to the huge jugs, the roof would be 5.7 at the Gunks. Nov 25, 2012
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Was done on a very cold day in December.. Note Todd in his down jacket Sep 27, 2013
The second pitch is wonderful varnish climbing, and seemed a lot easier than 5.8. Easily reached from When a Stranger Calls, if you don't want to lead the first pitch. Dec 4, 2013
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
Has anyone tried to rap P2 with a 80M rope? Nov 12, 2015
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
You can definitely rappel pitch 2 with a 80. using a 70m would make you short by maybe 4-5 ft. Id recommend leaving tag line at home and rigging 70M rope as a single rope rappel with a biner block. extend the rappel side by 10-15 ft to easily reach top of pitch 1 anchors and extending shorter side/pull side with a cordallete. Eliminates bringing two ropes up to the wall Mar 22, 2018