Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mescalito

Bed of Nails T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Black Widow Hollow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
C11H17NO3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cat in the Hat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cat in the Phat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Centerfold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chasing Shadows T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Monster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crunchy Cat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge Dressing T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart of Darkness T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Left of Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mescalito - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mescalito - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Negro Blanco T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Next Century, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
OB Button T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OB Fist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parental Guidance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pauligk Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pauline's Pentacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Nuts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rabbit's Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sandstone Sandwich T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Splitting Hares T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This Ain't No Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Too Many Tantrums T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown (Thing 1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Walker Spur, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wasp, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Welcome to Red Rocks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
When A Stranger Calls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Y2K T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ignacio Delgado and Francis Baker 08/26/06 noon
Page Views: 3,753 total, 27/month
Shared By: Francis Baker (fran) on Aug 26, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


23 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route follows a crack system for its entire length. The first pitch starts in a dihedral and finishes on classic red rock varnish face climbing, after passing a small roof. 85' 5.7. Build an anchor in the crack on a ledge just below and left of "Next Century" P1 bolts.

The second pitch starts with a nice white flake and then follows the weakness up to a roof via corner, crack, and face climbing. Surmount the roof and build a belay (opt. 1). Then work right (west) about 15' to the anchors for "Next Century". It would be possible to pull the roof and then traverse directly right to the anchors (opt. 2) and belay. 130' 5.9

Rappel "Next Century" with two ropes.

Location

This line is 10' left (east) of "Next Century". Start in a dark dihedral with flakes capped by a white roof. The white flake starting pitch 2 is very visible from the base.

Protection

A standard rack with doubles up to 2" for the long second pitch. Pitch 1 is a trad anchor.
Pat Mac
Tempe
Pat Mac   Tempe
I found that the end of the first pitch and the good anchor position was a little closer to The Next Century anchors than I was expecting. Oct 16, 2017
Good climb overall. I didn't find the start of P1 to be particular concerning if you are accustomed to careful climbing. P2 is definitely the highlight.

FYI, you cannot easily rap this with a 70m. If your rope is an extra meter, maybe, but otherwise bring a second rope. You can always leave the second rope at the base, lower your partner, and then pull up the second rope. Easier than bringing to along with you. May 1, 2017
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
We had a little trouble matching up the route description to the various choices presented by the features (ie -- it looks like you could start the first pitch two or three different places, or even climb the fun first pitch of Next Century (5.8) and move your belay for P2).

Splitting the route into three pitches made sense to us. (We built the belay on the comfortable ledge to the left about midway up P2).

If I were to climb it again, I'd skip the roof, which felt pretty straightforward 5.7ish, and try to veer underneath it to the right to belay from the Next Century bolted station rather than building a belay above the roof then moving down to the NC bolts to rap.

Some of the face sections felt a bit runout to me but the climbing was not hard there.

We took a double rack to #2 and a single #3. Mar 16, 2016
Leslie McG
  5.9
Leslie McG  
  5.9
While the 2nd pitch is absolutely stellar, the first pitch is downright terrifying. LOTS of loose rock on what may appear at first to be solid. I would suspect that as the first pitch gets climbed more the grad eon it will change. Sep 27, 2015
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
Agree, great route. And the ability to TR the second pitch of Next Century makes it even better. Nov 5, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
The second pitch on this route is a true gem! Such fun climbing, good holds, well protected...couldnt ask for more!

Well done, Fran. My compliments! Mar 22, 2012
Jason D. Martin
  5.8+
Jason D. Martin  
  5.8+
I climbed this route with Fran today and it was far better than expected. The bottom of the first pitch is a bit dirty, but after you're through that, it's quite fun climbing!

We broke the route up into three pitches and rapped off the bolts at the top of the second pitch of the Next Century. We were able to reach the ground with one double rope rappel.

About half way up the second pitch there was a fixed anchor which could be used to descend as well.

Jason Mar 31, 2009
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
Fran, nice job on this route, it is really good. It's also a good way to reach the top of The Next Century from which you can top-rope the 5.10b/c second pitch - that was real fun, too.

We rappelled from the top of pitch 2 with two 60m ropes. The ropes won't reach the ground unless you aim some distance to the climber's right (west). In which case you can get down with a single rappel.

Pitch two is quite long so bring a generous rack.

John Sep 5, 2006