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Routes in East Face
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Black Widow Hollow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bloodline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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C11H17NO3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Centerfold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Cookie Monster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crunchy Cat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Deep Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left of Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Mescalito - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Next Century, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pauligk Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pauline's Pentacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pine Nuts T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Splitting Hares T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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This Ain't No Disco T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Too Many Tantrums T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Walker Spur, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Wasp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Welcome to Red Rocks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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When A Stranger Calls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Y2K T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton, May 1975 |
| Page Views: | 6,764 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | L. Hamilton on Mar 4, 2004 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Air temperatures rose well past 100 degrees on the day of the first ascent, but the chimney stayed cool -- hence the route's name. Offbeat and varied, moderate climbing. See Urioste guide for a photo showing the approximate location.
Begin in a deep chimney on the NE side of Mescalito. After two pitches of easy climbing, the chimney widens.Pitch 3 -- Stem the wide chimney to reach a jam crack on the right wall, pass a small roof and belay (5.9).Pitch 4 -- Face climbing leads up and left to a shelf. Belay below an offwidth crack (5.9). An old piton, predating the first ascent, used to exist on this pitch.Pitch 5 -- The offwidth crack.Easier climbing continues for hundreds of feet, eventually moving left into a long hand-sized crack. One final pitch achieves the summit of Mescalito.
Begin in a deep chimney on the NE side of Mescalito. After two pitches of easy climbing, the chimney widens.Pitch 3 -- Stem the wide chimney to reach a jam crack on the right wall, pass a small roof and belay (5.9).Pitch 4 -- Face climbing leads up and left to a shelf. Belay below an offwidth crack (5.9). An old piton, predating the first ascent, used to exist on this pitch.Pitch 5 -- The offwidth crack.Easier climbing continues for hundreds of feet, eventually moving left into a long hand-sized crack. One final pitch achieves the summit of Mescalito.
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