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Routes in Mescalito

Bed of Nails T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Black Widow Hollow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
C11H17NO3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cat in the Hat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cat in the Phat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Centerfold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chasing Shadows T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Monster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crunchy Cat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge Dressing T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart of Darkness T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Left of Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mescalito - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mescalito - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Negro Blanco T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Next Century, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
OB Button T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OB Fist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parental Guidance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pauligk Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pauline's Pentacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Nuts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rabbit's Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sandstone Sandwich T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Splitting Hares T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This Ain't No Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Too Many Tantrums T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown (Thing 1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Walker Spur, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wasp, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Welcome to Red Rocks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
When A Stranger Calls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Y2K T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton, May 1975
Page Views: 4,497 total · 27/month
Shared By: L. Hamilton on Mar 4, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Air temperatures rose well past 100 degrees on the day of the first ascent, but the chimney stayed cool -- hence the route's name. Offbeat and varied, moderate climbing. See Urioste guide for a photo showing the approximate location.

Begin in a deep chimney on the NE side of Mescalito. After two pitches of easy climbing, the chimney widens.Pitch 3 -- Stem the wide chimney to reach a jam crack on the right wall, pass a small roof and belay (5.9).Pitch 4 -- Face climbing leads up and left to a shelf. Belay below an offwidth crack (5.9). An old piton, predating the first ascent, used to exist on this pitch.Pitch 5 -- The offwidth crack.Easier climbing continues for hundreds of feet, eventually moving left into a long hand-sized crack. One final pitch achieves the summit of Mescalito.

Protection

No fixed anchors. The FA party took one set each of hexes and stoppers.
Flava Flav
Kirkland, Washington
 
Flava Flav   Kirkland, Washington
 
Soloed to left side again to a loose steep section, pitched it up and right to a tree. That face climbing section is unlike anything else on the route. Thought the #5 was unneccary after the second time around, and even really small cams seemed overkill which we forgot to bring. Extras in the .3-#1 range was helpful on many long pitches. Take the off width pitch up nearly to the base of the L facing chocolate corner, then the next pitch halfway up the hand crack 200+ ft, then up to the top, 230 ft. there is some loose scrambling for 15 ft above this depending on which way you go after that, seemed reasonable. Done in 6 roped pitches. Jun 21, 2015
Royal
Santa Rosa, CA
 
Royal   Santa Rosa, CA
 
Maybe I'm crazy but the chimney pitch seemed like no big deal to me. It was fun, but required little chimney technique or skill IMHO. HOWEVER, after the chimney and jam crack there's probably 80 feet of hard face climbing right off the small ledge that felt real stiff to me. I'd call it every bit of puzzling 5.10 or so and the first 20 feet is unprotectable. That's the crux. Be warned. YUR GONNA DIE! Jun 18, 2015
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
I've added a photo of the historical piton. I imagine that rappelling off that even when new involved some degree of apprehensiveness. Let us hope this piton remains as an artifact from a bygone era. It is already within a few years of being formally archeological. May 1, 2015
L. Hamilton  
 
Sensing a mystery, Larry DeAngelo started an email exchange with Joe and me about that "old piton" on P4 of Deep Space that I mentioned. Joe's recollection agrees with mine except much more detailed. In his words:

"yes, i do remember placing the piton prior to our first ascent. i believe that i had been up there with jim rosser at least a year before returning with larry. i recall rappelling or lowering off of the thing and leaving a sling and carabiner. a z shaped peg carried a lot of value to me at the time and they seemed to be a particularly good piton for our softer rock or at least so we reckoned. not much of a story but the piton was definitely mine."

As for drilled angles or other ironmongery, those must have been later additions. As the description notes, we left no fixed anchors. May 1, 2015
L. Hamilton  
 
The old piton on pitch 4 marked the high point of a previous foray by Joe Herbst, as I recall. There may have been other left gear that we cleaned when we completed the route on our hammerless FA.

On many of the longer routes I did with Joe, he had made earlier attempts with other partners that fell short for one reason or another. That includes attempts on Triassic Sands, Frigid Air Buttress, the first pitch of Rainbow Wall, and -- I think -- the chimneys on Velvet Wall (which nowadays form the crux of Epinephrine).

One notable exception was the FA of Aeolian Wall, which nobody had ever seen up close. Apr 25, 2015
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
Regarding the old piton-as memory serves, there are actually several fixed pins on the route- the one in question is above the crux chimney, but below more hard climbing (also 5.9), and it's certainly likely that if whomever placed it got that far, they could have quite possibly summited as the spooky climbing is behind you at that point, although the real route finding begins not far above that piton.

Below the piton there are, if i recall correctly, enough drilled angles to get down from the base of the crux chimney to the top of that hill with a single 60m line- can't remember if it's 2 or 3 anchors worth. This could mean a path of retreat for the party that first explored it- the pitons location is such that its also likely the party could have lowered off that pin back to the base of the chimney, then drilled enough angles to get back down safely. Or those angles could have been placed later after Larry and Joe's completed ascent.

It's a good question as to whether Deep Space had been done in its entirety before Larry and Joe got to it. Honestly, after having done the route, I'd be curious if any one of the very few parties to have repeated it followed the exact line that they did- perhaps there are more pins above, just placed left or right far enough that they haven't been spotted? Apr 20, 2015
Josh Janes    
"An old piton, predating the first ascent, used to exist on this pitch."

An old piton, predating the first complete ascent?
An old piton, predating the first free ascent?
Was there other evidence of passage or of a bail anchor? If not, would it be safe to assume the first ascent had already happened (certainly the first four pitches had already been done)? Apr 19, 2015
Tricamus
Culver City, CA
 
Tricamus   Culver City, CA
 
We did the chimney pitch differently. Deeper in the chimney there is a great (although sandy and somewhat brittle) hand crack in the back left. Jamming and stemming will take you to the roof where you can transfer sides to work your way out of the long horizontal roof. Pro is pretty good, so it skips the "R" rating of the conventional route but adds technical difficulty (5.10+). However, a heady PG13 traverse out of the chimney is dependent on small gear and added rope drag.

Overall, really fun pitch for the chimney lovers out there. Sorry, no photos to add. I was too busy catching my breath. Apr 24, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
This is a neat and challenging route for those looking for a more challenging way to the summit of Mescalito. The 5.9 stemming chimney is very serious and the runout is a long one.

Bring gear to a #4 camalot, as I recall, and a couple of small to medium tricams for the odd pocket. Mar 6, 2005
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
This is a really great route. Larry D'Angelo and I did this route a month or so ago and I have to hand it to Joe and Larry H. for the first ascent. This route is 'bold' in a great way. The piton is still there, looking rather mangy, but luckily, there's a nice cam placement next to it. Again, great route! Dec 7, 2004